London’s it-girl DJs give us their story in three songs and three sneakers

On the cobbled streets of Soho, we gather four rising stars from the women’s DJ scene as part of eBay’s ​“In Session With” series, a program unearthing the stories of cultural game-changers as told through a common language of sneakers.

Who, exactly? Tiffany Calver, ELLADHC, Laelo Black, and Tailor Jae, all innovators who have electrified clubs, fields, and airwaves with their riotous sets, bringing their own style – major kicks, included – to the stage. In so doing, they’ve kicked down the doors to what was once deemed a male-led industry.

Of course, formidable women have always been at the forefront of DJ and sneaker subculture, it’s just taken the wider world a hot minute to catch on. If you’ve been living under a rock, these girls are a good place to start.

Bouncing around until the sun comes up, running to catch a flight to their next big gig, spinning rare records… The lifestyle of a female DJ is physical by design. ​“That’s why I have a massive sneaker collection,” says Tiffany. ​“I can actually do my job well in them.” However, comfort – we love a practical shoe – doesn’t come at the cost of personality. More often than not, being into deejaying also coincides with a penchant for sneakers; not because they’re the profession’s unofficial footwear of choice, but rather, a deeper cultural synergy.

Growing up as lovers of hip-hop, grime and house, the quartet are the latest iteration in a musical story that has developed in tandem with street style. Just as the Bronx in the 70s and 80s was defined by Afrika Bambaataa, Grandmaster Flash and DJ Kool Herc and the simultaneous rise in Adidas Firebird tracksuits, hi-top sneakers, break dancing and graffiti, these girls have come of age at a time when the state of your Air Force Ones matters just as much as the 140 BPM instrumental a rapper is spitting over. ​“A proper Londoner is so concerned about their trainers that they don’t even want to see a crinkle on them,” laughs Tailor.

So, how do these contemporary figures build their sonic worlds? And how does that marry with their aesthetic flair? To build a picture of London’s female DJ community, eBay and THE FACE team up to quiz them on three sneakers and three songs that encapsulate their stories so far.

Name one song and one sneaker that best describes your personality.
I feel so confident in Tyler, the Creator’s LV collaboration from this year – and I know how to style them. They really represent my Kanye, Louis Vuitton backpack era. So, the song I would go for would be I Wonder by Kanye West.

If you could describe your love language via a track and a sneaker, what would you choose?
My love language is buying me shoes. My boyfriend bought me the Prada America’s Cup shoes, which are smart, casual and sexy. You can go for dinner with Jay‑Z in these. I don’t really wear heels because I’m cosy over fashion (and I’m a tall girl), so I have a massive sneaker collection. Incidentally, when me and my boyfriend first started dating he told me he was six foot five – maybe he is in Air Forces. The song to pair with these would be Prada by Cassö, D‑Block Europe and Raye.

One song and one sneaker that sends you down memory lane?
I love my Nike Dunk Low x Off-White Lot 1s. They’re the last gift I received from Virgil Abloh, who was one of my heroes. He always told me sneakers are to be worn. I have worn these for nearly every DJ set. I’d pair them with Streetfighter Riddim by D Double E.

Could you describe your sound using only one sneaker and one track?
The sneaker is the Isabel Marant Bekett. I’ve grown to really like them. They might hurt a bit – they’re known as ankle breakers – but I can dance in them. Kitale by Sam One is a song that really makes people move, which is what we’re all about at Shindig [a night Ella co-runs with AyChibs]. I love seeing when a crowd is receptive. It still makes me really proud. Also, both the shoes and track are vintage, which I love. I’m addicted to second hand shopping online – it’s like a car boot sale – and I just love the feeling of opening up a package that’s come in the mail.

Describe your favourite performance of all time with a sneaker and a song?
I wore the Adidas Japan VHs to my performance at Little Simz​’s Tate Lates. I’m trying to branch out a bit more, so I was experimenting. Fashion is subjective, and I can wear what I want. I felt my best. I went off the dome for that set, and the Tate got so full people were just spilling out of the room, having so much fun – it was insane. One track they really loved was Ciara’s One, Two Step – the Sam Gellaitry remix. I’ve been stewing on that for a while as it’s a mix of R&B and techno, and I was looking for the best environment to play it in. It was the perfect place.

Kitale and Japan VH are things I knew of, but wouldn’t dare try out as I just assumed they weren’t for me. As I’ve grown older, I’m more comfortable to try the things I had previously written off because I thought they wouldn’t suit me. It turns out I just needed to be in a more open headspace to enjoy them.

Name one track and one pair of sneakers every house party needs.
Gyptian’s Non Stop. I love that tune because it takes me back to the beginning of my DJ journey when I was playing around with dancehall and reggae. The Nike Cortez is a really classic, simple and nostalgic shoe, which is everything a house party is. My dad, who was Jamaican, considered it vital to have a flashy new outfit to show off at the raves he was going to, so I’ve subconsciously taken that on myself, making sure I’m stepping correct and matching the party I’m going to. Footwear is something people will always pay attention to, whether it’s the style of shoe, year of the make, colour, or condition.

How would you explain your crossover of sounds using only one shoe and one song?
The Nike NOCTA is genre-less like me. I have always done things that people would think were a bit risky. I love to explore house, Afro-house, amapiano and gqom, and give the crowd something they don’t necessarily expect. We don’t go to the club to be able to predict what’s coming next. South African music was something I really explored during lockdown and play a lot. I love that with amapiano they all have dance moves everyone knows. I am not yet there, I have my little Laelo bop though.

Best song and shoe for two-stepping in the rave?
Lastag by Gqom Kids is very me. If you come to one of my sets, there’s a real celebration of African drums. There’s cultural sounds and heavy beats to keep people moving. After the pandemic, it feels like there are people who are outside just to be outside, but as a raver you need to bring the vibe. Don’t just fill up space and not enjoy. Put away your phone and live in the moment. New Balances will get you through the rave until 5AM.

What’s a sneaker and a song that is slept on?
I’ve had a few international sets this summer and they might not be everyone’s go to but On Running shoes – when you’re going to the airport – really come in handy. They’re not just comfortable, they’re floaty. As for a song that is slept on, I’d say D3AN, Dankie Sounds and Smeez’s song Shhh (Adidude). Dankie is doing amazing. They’re championing electronic African music. I feel this song is perfect for a raver who’s got an eclectic palette. I also think it has a nice hook that pays homage to South African amapiano – basically just a banger that hasn’t yet received its rightful recognition.

Tell us about how you first got into DJing using only one song and one sneaker.
Air Max 97 – it goes with Ruff Sqwad’s Extra. I’m from East London, like proper, cockney East London, and I was inspired by grime growing up. Even though I’m genre-agnostic, my brother was a grime MC, so those are some of my earliest memories of music. We used to share one room, and hearing that on the radio has shaped me. I love my music grimy, but when I’m done wearing my Air Max, I will wipe them and put them back in the box. I’m that sort of person.

Could you describe your sound using just a sneaker and a track?
LR Groove by Device, which goes with my Clints Oasis ​“Pearl” as they’re both so uniquely made. I haven’t actually worn the shoes because I can’t. I bought them for decoration because they feel untouchable and ornamental. I feel like I always have to include the track because when you hear it, your screw face comes on but you’re dancing at the same time. The balance of those two energies is very hard to get right. Also, I love what Junior Clint has been able to build as an independent designer from Manchester.

What sneakers and what song are your guilty pleasures?
Adidas Sambas because everyone is wearing them. I didn’t want to be a part of the crowd, but sometimes you just have to join in. The track is Calvin Harris’ I’m Not Alone – it’s a fun club banger and you just can’t not like that track, I’m sorry.