Coach’s AW25 show was a joyful journey through time

The word ​“reset” has been ubiquitous this New York Fashion Week. Each time editors have huddled together to discuss the aftermath of an AW25 collection, it’s popped up. Calvin Klein’s first show in seven years was one example, and Sandy Liang retiring her trademark bows for ribbon brooches was another.

Coach was in on the big shift, too.

For those who follow Doncaster native and Coach’s creative director Stuart Vevers on Instagram, you’ll be well-acquainted with his teasing of new pieces. Bags have always been big business for Coach, but Monday’s show was an opportunity for the brand to think outside of the box with 1920s-inspired partywear, OTT everyday separates and cartoonish footwear leading the charge. Whimsy and fun were clearly on the creative director’s plate. A viral bag is all good and well, of course, but Vevers upped the ante and went full fantasy mode to reflect the New York city that was free of restraint and full of boundless possibilities, when he frequented the city as a young lad in 1996.

Staged inside the spacious Wade Thompson Drill Hall on Park Avenue, Gen Z princess PinkPantheress and City Girls rapper JT (dream blunt rotation) sat in the front row, as indie band and Brooklynites Nation of Language performed ahead of the show. A model came down the runway in square neon yellow sunglasses, a floor-sweeping, high-neck coat and a small rounded bag tucked into her side, marking the start of the fun. Gone were last season’s proclamations for New York and in their place, something more experimental, though no less sincere. Exciting stuff.

It soon became clear that fun-sized sunnies were a pivotal part of Coach’s ready-to-wear this season: they came in shades of burnt tomato, aubergine, grey and yolk-yellow. Yum. Coats were roomy and long, with button-detail throat latches on buttoned and peg and loop styles in espresso, ochre, navy and black.

A stand-out look worn by former FACE cover star Alex Consani consisted of a dark, ankle-grazing coat lined with shearling, a pair of hypnotic shades, light-wash jeans and trainers. It was a take on the everyday New Yorker’s casual uniform, with oomph. For the maximalists at the table, tiny purses swung from side to side around models’ necks, cardigans featured patchwork leather squares, and bags were loaded with fuzzy toy animals. Rabbits, elephants, carrots: nothing was off the table. Tool kit earrings, meanwhile, put us in a silly, goofy mood.

The cute, dainty Empire 34 – the cousin of the viral Empire bag – was introduced. Ahead of the show, Vevers took to IG and showed us all the useful things you could fit inside: a cucumber, a giant pencil, a hammer. Essentials, basically. Then came the Twin Pocket bag which was graffiti-ridden and elongated.

For the second season, Coach’s pre-loved leather Soho sneakers made an appearance. Then things got really crazy: there were bunny slippers – with proper soles, so you can wear them to the offie or the next Coach soirée. Trainers got the big charm treatment, and clusters of stuffed toys enveloped footwear so you couldn’t see where the laces began and ended. As the show came to a close, things got a little glitzier as we got a taste of dance floor-appropriate dresses that were rife with twinkling details. On one side of the dresses were a smattering of beads, and on the other side of them were jewels that made up ribbon illustrations. Meanwhile sequin-covered bags slotted in perfectly.

Of course, we then had to muscle in on all the backstage action and throw some questions Vevers’ way. ​“My kids were a big inspiration,” he said of the collection, as his adorable four-year-old son clung to him. ​“They find joy and playfulness in dressing up. We all need a little comfort and play right now.”

Listening to the Coach’s younger audience informed him this season. ​“Self-expression” and ​“fashion inciting confidence” were his main takeaways from observing the younger generation around him, he explained. A couple more that appeared on his AW25 mood board: ​’90s street style and Larry Clark’s Kids, references apparent in the styling of and the casualness of some of the garments

​“I think it’s important to reflect on the times and to respond to them. ​‘Fresh’ and ​‘clarity’ were words I used a lot this season,” Vevers says.

​“Clarity was a big one because I felt like we needed to be clear about what we stand for, but also the clothes we wanted to make: super focused palettes and very clear silhouettes. I wanted to reflect the generation that I’m listening to.”