How designer Diane V bagged a PinkPantheress collab

PinkPantheress loves a handbag. They’re practically welded to her side when performing on stage and they’ve become a fully fledged part of her Y2K auntie persona. It makes sense, then, for her to have one of the most innovative accessories designers on speed dial: French-Togolese Diane V, who for the last two years has collaborated with her mum on making small barrel-shaped tartan handbags.

Naturally, PP wanted to get in on all the fun by collaborating with Diane. Was it her tartan designs that drew her in? The plush barrel design? Or maybe she was enticed by the cute trinkets Diane tends to use to personalise individual bags. Either way, the two struck gold – or rather, tartan – after Pink’s manager, Phoebe, introduced the pair.

Within weeks, Diane had her head designer, Jacques, making a bag in Togo, where her mum was born and where all her bags are made. ​“I go to Togo two or three times a year, but my mother spends half the year there so she’s essential to the business,” she says of her creative process. “ When I’m there we get to experiment a little more – when I’m away I’m thinking about what to do next, and my mother composes all the patchwork.”

Last month, Dover Street Market Paris and London released the exclusive Diane x PP bag, accompanied by a shoot with Pink to launch the collaboration. For Diane, who lives in Paris and travelled to London for the shoot, this was a surreal experience. ​“I feel grateful because PP’s team reached out to me for the collaboration, and I think it’s special to work with younger brands when you’re someone who has a large audience.”

Before she heads back to her studio, I ask the elusive designer will she ever reveal what the ​“V” stands for. ​“I’m not ready for a full reveal yet – my family name is too long and no one can pronounce it! Not even French people”.

Diane, it’s been a whirlwind few months. When did you first meet PinkPantheress?

I met PinkPantheress on the day we shot the campaign for the collaboration! It came about because her manager Phoebe Gold is a friend of mine and a longtime supporter of Diane V. My friend Taïka Li did the production and my boyfriend Gabriel Trautmann shot the campaign.

How did the creative exchange work with you living in Paris?

PinkPantheress’ album was tartan themed and I had been working with tartan for a while, so it made sense to do something together. I would send tartan options that were at the Grand Marché in Lomé – a very big market – where I source most of my fabrics. I would send options over to Phoebe and she would show them to Pink. Usually, I would send swatches and designs via WhatsApp. Pink picked her favourite tartan print and we started making the bags.

How did you get into fashion?

My mother definitely played a big part and so did film. When we were younger, me and my best friend would dress up and pretend to be movie stars. Growing up, [fashion] became more of a way to express myself and my individuality – in middle school I got in trouble a lot for it.

How did bags become your niche?

It was unexpected, actually. My mother, Afi Nayo, and I often share clothes. She’s an artist with incredible style. The first bags were for me and her because I love prints, so when we found material at the Grand Marché, we got excited to make items for us to wear. I made a bag and I’d get compliments every time I used it. Then I made some for my friends and their friends and so on…

What are the bags made of?

They’re made of cotton most of the time – but I try to pick materials that have a nice feel and that aren’t synthetic. I bought a lot of fabric when I visited Japan and I’ve been able to experiment with nylon and water-resistant fabrics [since then].

You take your bags all over the world with you. Which one has travelled the most?

The classic red tartan.

Who owns the first Diane V bag ever made?

My friend Shanaë Perello. She was the first person to visit me when I hosted my first ever pop-up. Shanaë’s one of my muses – talented and stylish, like all the Diane V girls!