Mar­tine Rose com­ments on the state of the nation

The designer looked to the energy of Britain’s early ‘80s subcultures from ravers and new romantics, to skin heads and uniformed football fans for SS20.

WHERE WAS THE SHOW?

On the rooftop of an office block in East Lon­don (with pon­chos pro­vid­ed incase of rain).

WHAT WAS THE VIBE?

Mar­tine Rose’s SS20 col­lec­tion is a cri­tique on the state of the nation. Inspired by her years going to post-rave gath­er­ings on Clapham Com­mon (and the safe space these pro­vid­ed in which peo­ple from all back­grounds could coex­ist), Mar­tine looked to the ener­gy of Britain’s ear­ly 80s sub­cul­tures from ravers and new roman­tics, to skin heads and uni­formed foot­ball fans. Draw­ing on a time in which things were not always what they seemed, Martine’s col­lec­tion was pep­pered with car­toon graph­ics and slo­gans like Some Place Spe­cial’ Change Ahead’ and Promis­ing Britain’, posi­tioned above a clown encir­cled by EU stars.

WHAT WERE THE LOOKS?

Martine’s knack for sub­vert­ing tra­di­tion­al sil­hou­ettes was present through­out in the shape of dou­ble neck t-shirts, over sized jack­ets with exag­ger­at­ed shoul­ders (with car­toon t-shirts peep­ing beneath), and fit­ted trousers that flared from the knee down. Amidst the Brit inspi­ra­tion appeared a rodeo char­ac­ter dressed in a fringed jack­et paired with red satin bro­cade trousers. Shirts were per­ma­nent­ly crin­kled, track­suits came with con­trast­ing kimono sleeves, and square toe loafers were designed with an elon­gat­ed toe.

WHAT ABOUT THE HAIR?

We can thank Gary Gill for this. Martine’s gang wore a med­ley of fringed, curled, coiffed, back-combed and bleached wigs that played into her inspi­ra­tion for the col­lec­tion: the idea of an aver­age-look­ing office work­er hav­ing a wild alter-ego that’s only unleashed after-dark, or per­haps a foot­ball fan always decked out in their favourite team kit that masks a flam­boy­ant inter­nal energy. 

WHAT DID IT SOUND LIKE?


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