Paris Fashion Week Men’s was about the devil in the detail

During Paris Fashion Week Men’s, there were plenty of magnified and upscaled runway moments. At Louis Vuitton, blooming stain-glassed trunks stole the show while at Rick Owens, show-goers marvelled at the ​“skullets” exhibited on the designer’s harem of ​“GOONS”. Further intriguing details – and hair – came by way of Jonathan Anderson’s punkish, riotous muses in kaleidoscopic, glittering vests and skinny jeans and beach frizz hair by Guido Palau for Dior. At Hermès, Véronique Nichanian’s swansong after 37 years as creative director culminated in tactile leathers and knitwear boasting geometric patterns. Over at AMI, Adwoah Aboah and Alex Consani helped ring home the message that minutiae can shift a look – in this instance, poppy tights, animal print accents and layering.

Pharrell Williams’ Louis Vuitton shows have become more than just a runway collection. This time last year, his AW25 show featured glass shelves encased with archive pieces from Kenzo’s Nigo. For AW26, the creative designer and music mogul upped the ante. Erected in the middle of the show space at the Louis Vuitton Foundation was a glass dwelling titled The Drophaus, designed by the Pharrell and filled with furniture and LV accents: a small bag here, some trousers there. Skirting the house, shrubbery, astroturf and the best-looking next-door-neighbours was an A‑list front row including Skepta, SZA, Tyriq Withers and Callum Turner. As the lights went up, three models in slate grey suiting, clutching a mini Speedy bag and a jacket twinkling under the spotlights, circled the house before wandering inside to finger the garments. Only then did they hit the runway.

Next: a flurry of models in plush parkas, tailored coats with neckties, monogrammed bags glued to their sides patrolled the house. New iterations of beloved signature LV bags came down the runway: buttery Speedys, glow-in-the-dark Flash bags, and vibrant bowling bags.

This being LV x Pharrell, grandiose trunks were a highlight. Some were illuminated and covered in floral stain-glass (a replica of Art Nouveau style), while others featured the brand’s emblem with florals woven throughout. With Pusha T an unexpected face on the runway, the procession of models flooded the catwalk to a soundtrack of Voices of Fire’s The One as a choir sang live backing. They brought The Drophaus down.

Outside of the Dior men’s show, a mob of fans were waiting for ambassadors Robert Pattinson and Mia Goth. A proper Hollywood moment, for sure. But for those watching purely for the fashion, this was equally momentous: Jonathan Anderson’s second menswear outing for the house.

The AW26 collection in one word: unpredictable. Cuban heels, shimmery tops, Pam Hogg-esque acid-yellow wigs, voluminous, billowy capes, shrunken blazers and skinny jeans. Unexpected considering his debut 18^th century-influenced men’s show last summer boasted cargos, formal evening shirts and bar jackets. It turns out that idiosyncratic New Jersey indie musician Mk.gee was the inspiration for Anderson after the pair met. Let’s see what he cooks up next…

Fog-filled and dimly lit, Rick Owens’ show set the tone for its AW26 collection. Staged inside Palais de Tokyo, musicians-turned-models Usher, Cash and Rema, clad in black and leather, wandered the space like full fledged members of Rick’s crew. Out of the haze emerged brand muse Tyrone Susman in a sleeveless, sweeping leather waistcoat, baggy trousers and padded stacked heels.

On the beauty front: models with stars shaved into a buzzcut-and-ponytail combo, lengthy bottom lashes and wispy dip-dyed hair. Then, colour and tactile textures cut through Owens’ monochrome army via shaggy jackets made in collaboration with London-based Russian designer Straytukay, long fringing on headwear, sheer Argyle knits and printed oversized jackets. ​“We are the goon squad, and we’re coming to town, beep beep”, stated the show notes, lyrics taken – obviously – from David Bowie’s Fashion. A little on-the-nose, Rick.

Riding a bike for the first time, finding your personal style, navigating intense friendships: all coming-of-age-moments, and the narrative driving Julian Klausner’s second menswear show. Eclectic layering – striped knits paired with tailored shorts, pastel high-neck buttoned tops with stripes shirts – kept things sharp and captivating. Julian’s inspiration was rooted in finding yourself through clothes, and so, there were patterned, oversized jumpers that could easily have been precious hand-me-downs coupled with embellished embroidery, slimline accessories and flat shoes – all things you’d be excited to step out into the world wearing.

Kiko Kostadinov’s men’s show at Grand Plateau was replete with masterfully crafted draped and monochrome looks. All clean lines, high necks and checked multipurpose tops, it was a masterclass how quiet construction can make the loudest impact. Elsewhere, Willy Chavarria’s moving, filmatic AW26 show . Live performances by Lunay and Mon Laferte; Julia Fox, FACE cover star Goldie, Romeo Beckham and Paloma Elsesser playing the parts of New York commuters in floral tailoring, leather, black sunnies, relaxed sets and tons of flair. All in a day’s work.