Old Skool to the world

It’s been almost half a century, would you believe, since Vans Old Skools were invented. You know, the classic skate shoe, made from sturdy suede canvas with a white Sidestripe (™) going down the side.

​“Those Vans aren’t just shoes, they’re a statement,” say HiTech, a rowdy, raunchy hip-hop trio from Detroit, who happen to have been selected as part of the brand’s Premium Old Skool campaign. ​“They’re versatile enough for a night at [Detroit venue] Paramita or a concert at The Fillmore [also in Detroit], but they’ve also got that timeless silhouette that speaks to the culture. They’ve been in our rotation heavy and have become essential to the wardrobe.”

Since 1977, when the first pair of Old Skools dropped, they’ve been worn by SoCal’s Z‑Boys and in skate parks around the world; when Vans started sponsoring the Warped Tour in 1966, they were part of the uniform at punk gigs, before bleeding into the universe of hip-hop. Whether you were shredding it on-stage or starting a moshpit in the crowd, those trusty Vans were a reliable pair of kicks to see you through to the next morning and beyond.

​“Skating, music, fashion – people in those fields have a hunger for self-expression and a relentless ambition,” says Diandre Fuentes, head of footwear design at Vans, where she’s been working for 11 years. ​“There’s a lot of cross-pollination between these scenes, so it’s a natural, symbiotic relationship. Fashion craves that sense of authenticity – so the Old Skool and other Vans silhouettes are a natural choice.”

The celebratory Premium Old Skool Music Collection was launched alongside a special installation at the Kohn gallery and Los Angeles at the Vans Global Summit – we previewed it in late January, alongside a performance by alt hip-hop duo Paris, Texas and Rock Band Die Spitz, and a panel talk with Travis Barker, Henry Rollins, Bela Salazar of the Linda Lindas and Pack First’s Jahil Nzinga.

They say they never forget your first, right? Below, we caught up with HiTech, Diandre and Vans friend and collaborator Nicole McLaughlin to get all the goss on their best Old Skool stories.

Tell me about your first pair of Old Skools.

Melly: I was 15, standing in a thrift store, when I saw my first pair of Old Skools. They were navy blue with the white stripe, scuffed at the toe but still had some life in them bwoys.I asked my mom to buy them and she didn’t hesitate. Those shoes carried me through life itself. A symbol of growing up, for real. Every scuff told a story, and now it’s full circle!

Milo: I had these other shoes that I used to skate to work with. They sucked. I went to Launch skate shop in Michigan and grabbed a pair of Old Skools from my homie. I ran them boys down to the ground.

Chops: Man, my first pair of Vans were Old Skool Sk8-Hi – they held me down throughout my 11^th grade year of high school. Those were my day to day joints that I’d rock with my khakis.

How has your style evolved since those days?

Shit changes like the weather and all that, so our versatility is something that’s easier to peep than we can speak on. But Old Skools have been a constant through it all. They’re the perfect bridge between the fashion statements we have made in the past and where we are now. Versatile enough to adapt to our ever evolving look, for sure.

Vans is synonymous with the culture: raw, underground, and unapologetically real. Just like ghettotech and Detroit techno, wearing Vans isn’t about being flashy or pretentious, it’s really all about how you coming, for real. We wear them on stage, at the crib, hoop in ​’em, take the trash out and all that. I know them joints stink cause we wearing em OUT!

What’s next for HiTech?

Truth is, the world is so vast, and we have so many options as far as where we can go with it. But we are about to change things for the clubs, the party, for the show and what it means to experience a typical ​“artist performance”. What the world sees for us will change as well. Shit finna be beautiful.

@hitechdetroit

Do you remember buying your first pair of Vans?

I was so young, my mom bought them for me. There was a store in New Jersey called Bob’s, and I loved it because they had skate stuff. I was so into the skating and hardcore scenes, I played Tony Hawk. It was a checkered pair of slip-ons and I was probably 10 or 11. I’d colour them in, too – I’ve been customising shoes since the beginning!

How many pairs of Vans do you own?

A lot. Maybe like 15 pairs. They’re all so special and unique. They’re a blank canvas that you can add things onto – what you see is what you get. Customisation-wise, you can go as crazy as you want. When I’m coming up with an idea for a project, I do a lot of sole-swapping, so I have some deconstructed pairs that are in the process of being made into something else. It’s an endless process.

What informs your style generally?

Comfort, primarily. For my work, I use my body as a mannequin, so I’m constantly trying things on. I get really inspired by vintage pieces – I do a lot of second-hand shopping which I’ll then turn into entirely different things. But practicality is always at the forefront.

What would 10-year-old Nicole think about the way you dress now?

Me and her are the same. I still listen to hardcore music, I still love skate culture and punk. I’ve actually been recreating outfits from when I was a kid and they still check out!

Any advice for beginners who want to get into DIY?

Trust the vision. There’s nothing you can’t undo, so go for it.

@nicolemclaughlin

Customisation and DIY is at the core of what Vans is all about. How does that play into your work?

The deeper root of that is the sense of community, taking creativity and expression into your own hands and creating your own rules. You can see it with this collection which references these really iconic creative communities of the past. Whether it’s the hardcore movement or other subcultures, there’s a self-starting, DIY spirit, which is what creates innovation. That’s where I get a lot of my inspiration from. Vans is scrappy and cool and it’s never been hard to be part of the dream. I love that spirit and I try to continue that as we push the brand forward with new design.

Tell us about your first pair of Old Skools…

I had moved past the hot pink skull era and moved into the black and white core pair of Old Skools. That’s all you need, it’s a flag you can wave, if you know you know. It felt elevated.

Can you explain how the Old Skool design has evolved over the years?

There are always two prongs to what we’re pushing: innovation, whether technological or cultural, and then we’re also celebrating heritage. The Old Skool is such a staple in folks’ wardrobes. People have such a connection to its simplicity that they don’t want it to be too overstated. So as we push the Old Skool into the future, we want to maintain that. I think where we really evolve is with comfort: bio-based insoles, a more refined construction and fit. So it feels better on foot, it lasts longer, plus we’re working with sustainable materials while retaining the iconic look of the Old Skool.

@_dfuentes_