All the essentials from Paris Fashion Week Men’s SS25

What was going on, then?

Pharrell Williams, creative director of Louis Vuitton’s men’s line, created a collection that called to those entranced by nomadic life.

Where was it?

At the Garden of Peace UNESCO gardens, a vast space designed by acclaimed architect Isamu Noguchi.

What was it like?

Escapism was at the heart of Pharrell’s moodboard this season. Transfixed by the idea of globe-trotters, he set about crafting a collection that transported the audience to far-flung corners of the world. Via a spectacular production, Williams ruminated on archetypes of travellers reflected by aviator-style bombers, large trunks and neckerchiefs tied around models’ necks. Guests invites came via engraved Louis Vuitton Apple AirTags – a must-have for any sightseer. Transparent, cherry red garments with LV monogramming slapped across trunks, raincoats, briefcases and hoods, piqued the interest of attendees. As the collection continued, Pharrell only amped up the glamour.

Long-line fur coats adorned with crystals added a clever twist to the collection, and as previous seasons have shown, Pharrell has a knack for creating a supreme bomber: this time, it came in a globe print and an opulent football model (no doubt a symbol of the Olympics, due to start in Paris next month). Logo-fied tailoring also featured, alongside monogrammed tracksuit sets and double-breasted coats. Also apparent throughout the collection were pieces engraved with the phrases ​“LVers United” and ​“Le monde est à vous”, which translates to ​“the world is yours”. Pharrell proved, on day one of Paris men’s shows, that it certainly is his world.

Who was there?

The front row was a who’s who of young, hot musicians: everyone from Central Cee to Sabrina Carpenter to Shygirl and Tems populated the gardens.

What was the music like?

Pharrell curated a soundtrack filled with original tunes, aside from an awe-worthy choir and orchestra. Falling Up by Adekunle Gold, Williams and Nile Rodgers closed out the show.

What?

Bianca Saunders’ tourist-inspired collection was sparked by images of a Jamaican resort in the 1940s by Bradley Smith.

What went down?

An amalgamation of hallmark British tailoring and a celebration of her roots encapsulates the young designer’s latest line. An exciting line-up of knitted two-tone sets, hats, and vests exhibiting common phrases from Caribbean households and gaudy sayings from key chains ran throughout. Eye candy came in the shape of sequin tracksuits mirroring the sky in the dead of night, amorphous ripple print shirts mimicking the shape of a male body, knitted hats, wool-blend trousers, and shorts, in cupro and poplin, honour Jamaican school uniforms. Saunders partnered with Portuguese footwear company Valuno to fashion six shoe styles ranging from mid-calf boots to distressed loafers. The South London-based creative’s longtime friend and Royal College of Art peer Saul Nash worked on movement direction, too.

What was the music like?

Jah Mason’s classic tackle about a lover that lost her way, My Princess Gone, closed the show.

What?

A show that honoured balmy nights and Trinidadian textile artist Althea McNish.

Where was it?

Inside Musee des Arts Décoratifs (basically a swanky museum housing decorative art).

What happened them?

It was very pointedly a story about the ease, casualness, and elegance of by-the-sea attire. Wales Bonner was ready to escape to sunnier climes and, honestly, same. According to the 32-year-old South Londoner, dusk is when things get interesting. Designs included mini swim shorts in red and white, embellished ivory flats, boxy striped T‑shirts, sweater vests, and floral blazers. The head-turning cowhide velcro trainers and a glimpse of more from her longstanding Adidas collaboration, immediately caught the eyes of front-row guests A$AP Nast and Brent Faiyaz.

Who was there?

Fast becoming a runway mainstay, Julez Smith, son of Solange, was in attendance along with Brent Faiyaz, A$AP Nast, Kai Isaiah-Jamal, and Tina Kunakey.

What?

A riotous merging of prints, linen, and crystal-laden masks made for a thoroughly enjoyable Undercover SS25 men’s show.

What happened?

Creative director Jun Takahashi welcomed the fashion crowd with a hypnotic performance from Australian band Glass Beams, kicking off the runway in carefully crafted elaborate masks. Spiky gold crowns, pearl necklaces, and more masks engulfed models’ necks. And, as for the garments, jacquard prints, roomy jackets, loose draping, pleated skirts, and linen were focal points. ​“New Cloud” certainly lived up to its name, providing a light, cohesive collection, as well as an insight into Takahashi’s take on how art and fashion intersect.

In a word?

Ethereal.

What?

A SS25 collection that merged old and new, bringing back archival prints and ingenuous craftsmanship.

What was it like?

One to remember from artistic director Nigo. Held on the grounds of the Palais-Royal during golden hour, the collection saw peonies emblazoned on jacquard prints, knit hoodies embellished with glass hand-beading, beach-ready platform thong-slippers (!), and kaleidoscopic bleached denim, with a dash of washed-out leathers. Fun bits included a toy lion perched on a model’s shoulder, and a another with a hoodie zipped up, covering their face.

Who was there?

Longtime pal Pharrell Williams, Clipse, Gabriel Moses, Anwar Hadid, and French Montana were just a few of the famous faces occupying the front row.

What was the music like?

A slow-paced, techno remix of Nate Dogg’s Regulate complimented the line effortlessly.

What?

The ingenious designer enlists a 200-strong army to unveil his ​“Hollywood” SS25 collection.

What happened?

Spectacular doesn’t begin to sum up a show that brought together 200 subjects, including students, to commemorate the ​“weirdos and freaks” Owens calls his chosen family in LA. Staged at his favourite stomping ground, the Palais de Tokyo, the show was a seismic shift from January, when he invited an intimate crew to his home on the outskirts of Paris for AW24. Saturated in beige, ivory, and taupe, the collection consisted of leather-sheathed boots and flowing hooded capes, with Owens muse Tyrone Dylan opening in flowing style. A spectacular moment came when models contorted around a triangle frame that was carried down the runway.

In a word?

Sublime.

What?

Artistic director Kim Jones brought raining men to Paris with a collection that would fit right into the haute couture schedule.

What happened?

Blown-up sculptures of South African artist-potter Hylton Nel’s work were spread throughout the vast catwalk. Illustrations of animals by Nel were embroidered onto polished suits and intarsia knitwear. Blues, pinks, whites and navys worked themselves into the collection, while tons of hair-gel emulated a wet-look hair. It was the accessories that had everyone gawping: particularly the glossy ceramic collars, elevated outerwear, and studded boots.

Who was there?

Robert Pattinson, Demi Moore, Kate Moss, and Michael Ward were front and centre.

Must-have piece?

The teeny-tiny saddle bags that will be slung over the shoulder, or rather, the wrist of every cool kid.

What?

Proving formalwear doesn’t have to be dull, Junya Watanabe’s SS25 menswear collection was a rollercoaster of denim, patchwork, and off-kilter suiting.

What happened?

​“Dress Up Denim” was precisely as stated, and inventive ways of dressing up came in the form of patchwork sets – denim fused with leather and patchwork – on top of shirting with geometric designs. The whole thing was offset by mohawks, slicks of black lipstick and sunglasses decked out with earrings. The collection went through the various stages of evening wear, starting cool yet elevated, and progressively getting more rebellious, as evidenced by AC/​DC shirts and sliced-and-diced blazers towards the later stages of the collection.

The vibe?

Defiance.

The trend?

Menswear has gone naughty.

What?

A$AP Rocky’s debut show powered by AWGE, his creative agency, quickly became one of the most anticipated shows off-schedule.

What happened?

The Harlem-born musician enlisted all of his A‑list friends – A$AP Nast, Jonathan Anderson, Bianca Saunders, Clipse, and Michèle Lamy, and, of course, Rihanna – to check out a collection that scrutinised the notion of the American Dream. Located in Karl Lagerfelds old digs, models came bounding through the opulent mansion carrying sacks of money, wearing NYPD tops, upside down bomber jackets – Rihanna dubbed them her favourite pieces – and ​“AWGE” caps with the U.S. flag attached to them. It was also a special night for another reason, too. ​“Don’t Be Dumb” the title of Rocky’s debut collection, was announced as the title for his forthcoming fourth album, due to be released in August.

What was the music like?

Rocky soundtracked the show and Nast was spied partying behind the DJ decks mere seconds after the end to Project Pat’s Chickenhead.

The vibe?

Electric.

What?

Jonathan Anderson’s second fashion show in a week.

Where was it?

On Boulevard Henri IV, one of the most elegant and historic stretches of road in the city.

Who was there?

Drew Starkey, new Loewe muse and star of the upcoming Luca Guadagnino movie Queer, was sat next to Emily Ratajkowski, and Sabrina Carpenter was sat beside Omar Apollo. It was heartthrob central, as Leo Woodhall, Evan Peters, Kit Connor, and Archie Madekwe took up the rest of the front-row spots.

How about the clothes?

​“A radical act of restraint” swung the pendulum between fantasy and the everyday. Artwork by an array of artists Anderson was inspired – Paul Thek, Susan Sontag, Carlo Scarpa, Peter Hujar, and Charles Rennie Mackintosh – were dotted about the runway. Models emerged from steps in downturned feather headbands, sporting high-waisted balloon trousers coupled with knit sweaters and sharp suiting. Knights in shining armour popped out in metallic silver and gold clasp vests, feathered and mother-of-pearl tops, and drop-crotch leather and check trousers. It was enough to make your head spin (in a good way, obvs).

Must-have pieces?

The drop-crotch trousers are insanely versatile and will be cat-nip for fashion editors.