The cult of Chopova Lowena

It’s easy to sniff out a Chopova Lowena fan. Walking out of Deptford station at 9am last Saturday, a young woman wearing a glossy oxblood puffer, Cecilie Bahnsen x Asics trainers and a bum bag rushes past. Another, likely in her twenties, appears moments later, speed walking down the street. She’s clad in a plush coat and a knitted side bag that you might’ve spotted on TikTok. On the opposite side of the road, I spot another woman with spiked knitted earmuffs and a floral patchwork knitted top which catches my attention.

All three stand out on the fairly empty high street, their only companions being elderly couples carting their weekly shop back home and parents with strollers. There’s an end goal in sight, though: Chopova Lowena, the buzzy and prolific London brand run by Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena-Irons with Bulgarian roots, is having a sample sale – the first of its kind since 2022.

Last month, when the brand announced they’d be carting their Bulgarian-inspired, theatrical carabiner skirts, whimsical dresses and vibrant fleeces to a space near their South London studio, it caused quite the commotion. Last time around, after trading for a few hours and a mighty queue, they were cleared out of stock by 4pm (a friend told me she still feels heartbroken about not having secured a carabiner skirt).

Now, Chopova Lowena is its own mighty force. Since its inception in 2017, Emma and Laura – both Central Saint Martins alumni – are the crowing jewels of the London fashion circuit. Their September show was filled with die-hard fans as the designers returned for their annual show armed with a slew of gothic-meets-country muses.

My theory? There’s magic within Chopova Lowena’s borderline off-kilter garments and community-led ethos: much like a suit of armour, its wearer feels like they can tackle any curveballs the day might throw at them, billowing skirt and all. Nor is their ready-to-wear reserved for a certain demographic – two older women, dressed head-to-toe in Chopova, were busy setting up a refreshment desk at the sample sale, looking every bit as arresting as their younger counterparts. Wearing Chopova isn’t about age – it’s about attitude.

As a show of gratitude to CL loyalists, hours before the sale, the brand announced that one lucky customer would have the opportunity to take home a multicolured June carabiner for £100, a sliver of the retail price. June, who won the skirt (how apt), grins hard as she shuffles home, evidently feeling vindicated by her decision to arrive at 3am.

After securing my own skirt (it has a sizeable red belt and embellished adornments), I spot Emma and Laura serving at the till, as Charli xcx’s Brat remix album soundtracks dozens of customers pulling mini carabiner skirts over their trousers. They chat with each punter and carefully wrap up each item as though they’re handing over their firstborn, which, to some extent, isn’t far off. ​“Laura was packing up a skirt and said, ​‘Goodbye baby, have a good life!” Emma says, laughing.

​“I thought it might be busy but not this crazy, or [that there would be] people travelling from different cities,” she adds, before serving the next person. ​“Today is about fun – it’s a festive experience and it’s a big deal for us. We want it to feel special for everyone.” Judging by the gleeful look on everyone’s face, we’d say it’s mission accomplished.

What are you hoping to buy from the sale?

“I’ve come from Manchester just for the sale. I arrived at 8am and I’m hoping to buy a skirt and dress – maybe a hoodie, too. I have two and want one more.”

What brings you to the Chopova Lowena sample sale?

“Probably my love for the brand. I’ve already got a necklace and two tops, but I want to complete the set and a skirt. The whole world they build with all the prints and the textures… The style is cute, and it’s very me.”

What draws you to Chopova Lowena?

Jack: ​“I think their identity is really fun whilst also being stylish – it’s a bit crazy, a bit clunky. I think it all really works nicely together.”

Rodrigo: ​“I love how eclectic it is – no one is doing the same thing. It’s their first sample sale since they’ve done menswear, so hopefully [I can get] some of that and also a carabiner skirt.”

Do you own any Chopova Lowena pieces?

“I have a blouse with puffy sleeves and a midi skirt. If there’s a sale, I’ll be there! I’ve been here since 7am and my friends and I all managed to get skirts. Chopova is one of the first brands that I gravitated towards because it’s so unique.”

How did you first hear about Chopova Lowena?

“My partner introduced me to the brand and also told me about the sale today. I didn’t think it’d be so busy! Some of the pieces are impossible to get online and I want to see if I can get something for myself and hopefully my partner too.”

Do you own any Chopova Lowena pieces?

“Not yet but I hope I can get something today! I’m super excited. Chopova Lowena is the most interesting brand in London. The detailing and the trims are incredible. You can look at one of their garments for minutes and continue to find more details.”

What do you love about Chopova Lowena?

“The colours and it’s something new for me. My friend recommended Chopova and I want to hopefully try a few things today.”