What can we expect from fashion in 2025?

A lot can change in 24 hours – particularly in fashion. Forget brat, the term ​“musical chairs” ought to be on the list of the most used words last year. Why? Because it’s the only way to describe the industry’s current cohort of creative directors.

One of the most prominent rumors that continued to tap dance across the internet last year was that John Galliano would be exiting Maison Margiela after 10 years as creative director. Indeed, those internet rumblings and after-party whispers were finally put to bed last month. On 11 December, Galliano uploaded a statement to Instagram which read: ​“Today is the day I say goodbye to Maison Margiela. My heart overflows with joyous gratitude, and my soul smiles.” He did little to quell the rumours regarding which house he’s set his sights on next, only noting that ​“when the time is right, all will be revealed”. Such a man of mystery.

This missive from the desk of one of the industry’s greatest provocateurs left fashion fans on the edge of their seats, and caused a domino effect within the industry. Within a hours, a flurry of new fashion announcements appeared: Chanel put an end to rumours of its own following Virginie Viard’s departure in June, appointing Matthieu Blazy as artistic director. Then, Louise Trotter, who revitalised the French label Carven, was named as Matthieu’s replacement in the vacant creative director role at Bottega Veneta.

Now, this is where it gets a little headache-inducing: just days before the Galliano letter, Dries Van Noten promoted Julian Klausner to the role of creative director. Last year also saw Haider Ackermann replace Peter Hawkings as creative director of Tom Ford (which actual Tom Ford had only exited less than a year before), and Sarah Burton, who left Alexander McQueen in 2023, take on the big job at Givenchy. In terms of exits, Kim Jones left Fendi, Hedi Slimane left Celine, and Pierpaolo Piccioli left Valentino, where Alessandro Michele, who left Gucci in November 2022, has since been setting up shop. As 2024 comes to a close, there are many shoes – of varying sizes and styles – still to be filled. And what about Galliano? Who will fill his Tabi-shaped shoes? The designer has, at least, left us with this: ​“Everyone wants to know, and everyone wants to dream.”

As the fashion industry enters a new era – and here’s hoping for a return to real, emotionally resonant fashion (no more ​“quiet luxury” please) – we want to know, we want to dream, and, most importantly, we want to gossip!

While we at THE FACE certainly don’t have all of the answers, we’ve asked your favourite alternative critics and commentators the hard questions: Who’s in, who’s out, and who are we simply not talking enough about? Let’s find out, shall we?

What three words describe the feeling in fashion right now?

Recession, anticipation, inspiration.

Which recent announcement has you on the edge of your seat?

Galliano leaving Margiela!! Because wherever he’ll go, John will – I’m sure – produce the most exciting and inspiring collection of the year (2025, hopefully).

What are you most excited about when it comes to Matthieu Blazy’s Chanel?

Matthieu’s craft will shine thanks to great production designs, and he’ll create shows that can make us dream again.

And Louise Trotter’s Bottega Veneta?

Finally, a female creative director has entered the chat!

What’s something people aren’t talking about that they should be?

Is Jonathan Anderson going to Dior?? Everyone should talk about that.

Favourite rumour you’ve heard about the current industry shakeups?

Hedi Slimane at Armani!!

Who wins this game of musical chairs?

The industry itself, because it’s the industry that chooses who can enter the game and when the music stops.

Any closing words?

GALLIANOOOOOOOOOOO

@ly.as

What three words describe the feeling in fashion right now?

Redemption, renaissance, revolution.

What’s exciting you about the industry?

Helpful criticism actually does bring positive change. Respect for the craft, creativity, and art are so back.

What are you most excited about when it comes to Matthieu Blazy’s Chanel?

I don’t know how much money or investment was pumped into the rebuilding of Bottega Veneta, but if he could do all of that with their artisans I can only dream of what he does at one of the oldest heritage brands. There are strict codes, I’m sure, but they’ve hired Matthieu knowing he’s an experimental artistic director who values a blend of fine arts and design. I’m so excited for the runway shows!

And Louise Trotter’s Bottega Veneta?

I’m excited to learn more about Louise – people in fashion love what she did at Carven. I’m just generally excited about women in fashion. Sarah Burton is going to do big things for Givenchy.

Favourite rumour you’ve heard/​read about the current industry shakeups?

My favourite rumour was that Jacquemus was going to Chanel. Just for the sake of gossip, I heard that Jonathan Anderson is going to Dior and Martina Tiefenthaler will go to Loewe. It’s all making my head spin!

What are your hopes for fashion in 2025?

That people with archaic mindsets leave the industry and we rebuild under anarchy! So many of us are creatively in a vice because there are people in charge of big budgets with big clearances, who don’t understand the importance of change. Or are too stuck in their ways to accept that there’s a new way of thinking, new ways to market, to accept critique, to have fun, to have genuine diversity.

@thekimbino

What three words describe the feeling in fashion right now?

Fervent, transient, dizzying.

What are you most excited about when it comes to Louise Trotter’s Bottega Veneta?

I’m excited to see Louise’s lens on Bottega. I absolutely loved her work at Lacoste and I loved her at Carven – the quality is exceptional, and she elevated the brand’s POV. It will be interesting to see her navigate Bottega’s current clients – a large percentage of those being hetero men. With Kering’s fashion houses all helmed exclusively by white men, I hope her appointment isn’t rooted in appeasement, but in equality.

Favourite rumour you’ve heard?

Simon Porte Jacquemus at Chanel. He knows how to use the fashion media to his advantage. He leveraged those rumors to benefit his brand in such a skillful way. He plays the game well. Good for him.

What’s something people aren’t talking about that they should be?

Martine Rose and Grace Wales Bonner, are two Black women who are single-handedly carrying the top two global athletic brands on their backs, adding much-needed relevancy to the brands’ portfolios, reshaping the zeitgeist around the intersection of sports and fashion – yet neither of them has been allowed to helm any fashion houses.

Any other predictions?

That Kim Jones and Maria Grazia Chiuri will both step down from Dior. And with all of the recent appointments in fashion, notably Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford and Sarah Burton at Givenchy, I think people will want to get dressed again.

What are your hopes for fashion in 2025?

That we’re all not walking around dressed alike, in this echo chamber of mimetic desire. It’s monotonous and a little terrifying!

@londongirlinnyc

What three words describe the feeling in fashion right now?

Static, desperate, stingy.

What are you most excited about when it comes to Mathiew Blazy’s Chanel?

I’m so excited to see how Matthieu Blazy gives Chanel some more oomph! [I hope] the products are not only desirable but also rely on craft to create fashion shows that tell a story. I think there’s going to be a different feeling about Chanel once Matthieu begins.

What’s something people aren’t talking about that they should be?

The lack of plus size models on the runway! It feels like the movement has just dropped off and we need to recognise that we are making progress. Let’s not get rid of that!

Favourite rumour you’ve heard about the current industry shakeups?

I would love to see Jonathan Anderson go to Dior. He’s a real talent and while I would be sad to see him leave Loewe, he’s set the brand up as a real powerhouse, which can be continued by someone else.

Fill one empty creative director chair – who should it be and why?

At Fendi, I would love to see Pierpaolo Piccoli. He’s a real star, he creates excitement and intrigue, and combining that with the powers of the Fendi family, it would be unstoppable.

Where does Galliano fit into all of this?

I think John Galliano’s own namesake brand is so special – I would love to see him revive it.

What are your hopes for fashion in 2025?

We start to see exciting runways that make people yearn to purchase – we need a return to quality over quantity. I hope people realise that they don’t need to own everything just because it’s within their grasp!

@hautlemode

What three words describe the feeling in fashion right now?

Chaotic, timeless, artifice.

Which recent announcement has you on the edge of your seat?

Matthieu Blazy at Chanel has me on the edge of my seat since the expectation is that he’ll push the boundaries at the house. I want to see how he’ll translate the whimsy and play at Bottega Veneta, like the SS25 wigs, through Chanel’s codes. The visual languages are so different.

Regarding recent movements and predicted ones, what’s something people aren’t talking about that they should be?

People aren’t talking about extreme aesthetics enough or even the highly constructed artifice of effortlessness! The conversations about YouTubers ​“going minimalist” are deliberate and curated simplicity (which is another extreme, IMO).

Fill one empty creative director chair – who should it be and why?

[Stylist] Akeem Smith would transform Helmut Lang. He has such a keen eye for storytelling and world-building beyond product, which is what they need. He’s also always the first to do something and then copied, much like Helmut. Smith brings the essence of living to his design work because of his experience as a stylist, which is brand-aligned but he’d push the envelope so much and make it sexy.

Who wins this game of musical chairs?

The conglomerates will win, always, because there’s so much buzz, hype and anticipation. Hopefully, the public will win, because we’re finally getting some exciting change in fashion.

What are your hopes for fashion in 2025?

I hope fashion continues to abandon cynicism, and becomes more diverse and inclusive. I hope for independent design to be funded to represent the times and challenge the public to think, act, and empathise.

@thatadult

What three words describe the feeling in fashion right now?

Frenetic, competitive, confused.

Favourite rumour you’ve heard about the current industry shakeups?

Glenn Martens for Maison Margiela! The thought feels like fashion history coming full circle. And as they say, history repeats itself – appointing another Belgian designer who studied at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp and worked under Jean Paul Gaultier feels like destiny.

What makes it such an interesting seat to fill?

What truly sets Maison Margiela apart is the allure of anonymity that Martin Margiela himself mastered. His refusal to appear in public or attach a face to his work created a mystique that allowed the designs to speak louder than the designer.

What makes Martens the right man for the job?

If Martens steps into this role, incorporating that sense of anonymity back into the brand could be pivotal. Imagine a Margiela era where the brand doubles down on storytelling without the overt reliance on overcommunication, explanations, celebrity endorsements, or personal branding.

With Martens at the helm, Margiela could reclaim its position as the industry’s most unpredictable and thought-provoking house!

What are your hopes for fashion in 2025?

With so many legacy brands under new creative leadership, there’s an opportunity and expectation for a huge transformation across the industry that extends beyond aesthetics. I want to see collections that spark conversations, challenge norms, and reflect the complexities of the world we live in – not just collections that honour the pre-established house codes.

@mustbemargiela