London Fashion Week AW26 was about rain, raves and real community

Multiple designers had the same agenda this season: out out dressing is back. At Jawara Alleyne’s immersive exhibition, the Cayman Islands designer – in a collection that had plenty of flair – spotlit the dancefloor as a great place to form community. Meanwhile, Karoline Vitto’s collection was rife with ​’90s silhouettes made for a nightfall debut, and Burberry closed out London Fashion Week with a show celebrating the city after dark.

Chopova Lowena always has something up their sleeve, and in London, those sleeves were bigger than ever. Regencycore and golf were the crux of their AW26 presentation: intricate, curled, tousled, high-to-the-heavens hair, bodice knits, romantic frills and plaid dresses, argyle skirts, and golf bags. There was, too, the introduction of a subsidiary line, Chopova Lowena Feelings, featuring adorable tees and sweats and more.

Meanwhile, A Letter (formerly Aletta), the brand conceived by Matt Empringham and Freddy Coomes, made its debut via a public exhibition showcasing sheet-thin dresses and tops (an elevation of their work with paper garments), offset by heavier-duty pieces: as knits with collars curled up at the neck, A‑line dresses with bows, a Breton top.

More LFW intel below for you – and see you back here after Milan madness…

“Attendance is strongly recommended,” read the Tolu Coker AW26 invite. Between us, sometimes that’s an old-school PR trick to lure journalists and wide-eyed interns through the door. But with Tolu Coker I knew a VIP attendee was pretty much guaranteed. Why? Just last season, Tolu may have eschewed a runway show for a presentation, but said presentation featured Naomi Campbell. Plus Little Simz is an avid fan.

So, spotting a fleet of posh cars outside LFW HQ at 180 The Strand wasn’t entirely unexpected. But still. A fleet? One with a flag stuck on the roof?

Inside the venue, guests less-than-subtly whispering about a VVVIP attendee. ​“Guess who’s coming to the show?” said Miss Jason, host and perennial LFW FROW guest, as a horde of palace (not Palace) courtiers walked past. Finally, Actual King Charles made his entrance, parking himself between Stella McCartney and Martine Rose, with Skepta and Little Simz a few seats down.

First down the runway: a model in a black nipped-in waistcoat and matching skirt. By look five, Tolu’s signature patterned pieces appeared: checked skirts and ties, brighter washes of layered waistcoats, pleated leather and a gingham-printed dress with subtle moulded chest detailing, all soundtracked by Little Simz, who stood up from her seat and gave a live performance. As the show drew to a close, models huddled around swaying to the music. Was Charles busting some moves? One couldn’t possibly comment.

Ahead of THE FACE’s Lost party with Levi’s (it was a corker, ngl), CSM’s MA programme held its evening show at the secretive central London location, with 23 students unveiling their final collections. Among the looks were finely pleated dresses; an ​“I Love Paul Mescal” top (not no) by Oli Clarke; and, in Macy Grimshaw’s collection (styled by Harry Lambert), a top made from a shop shutter, a hair helmet and a cigarette top. Chic. Plus, L’Oréal Prize winner Finnerty Mackay offered single-button jackets and latex strips on shorts.

The innovation continued the following day at Fashion East, where designer Traiceline Pratt introduced his brand, Goyagoma, and was welcomed into the fold. Informed by the women in his life and the thrill of curating a look for an afters, the collection – styled by A$AP Rocky stylist Matthew Henson – featured a croc-print suede coat and a textured top that wrapped around the model’s body. Jacek Gleba’s collection included his signature shoes with spindly heels fit to parade around in come dark, and dainty swathes of fabric hanging from bottoms and draped tops. Louis Mayhew was going for gold: a collection centred on ​“discovering treasure”, complete with patchwork tops, knitted bottoms with high-waisted knickers, and pirate-esque hats.

Multidisciplinary artist Ronan McKenzie returned with her brand Selasi after stepping off the official LFW wheel for a minute, and it was a delight to see it back on the schedule. The long-overdue comeback was staged inside a sports hall, where the collection, aptly titled Endurance, drew comparisons between sport and fashion, and the long slog to the finish line.

What did that translate to? Ready-to-wear featuring sculptural leather; ​“Walthamstow” slogans splayed across a handmade, deconstructed skirt; and browns and beiges saturating trouser-skirt hybrids. There was some deviation from the designer’s favoured neutral hues, with green and yellow asymmetric sports jerseys meshed with tailored trousers.

Speaking of absence making the heart grow fonder: Karoline Vitto returned to the calendar after a few seasons of look books with a show that questioned the regression of inclusivity and fashion’s obsession with thinness – the important stuff. Styled by Jessica Skeete-Cross and cast by Chloe Rosolek, exposed torsos, slinky cowl necklines and sensual low-cut trousers framed the bodies of curve models, showcasing how clothing should fit us, not the other way around. Not to mention: a first KV menswear offering.

How do you celebrate 20 years of a brand? For Erdem founder Erdem Moralıoğlu, it meant paying homage to his longtime muses. The stylistic synergy of Margot Fonteyn, Deborah Cavendish (Duchess of Devonshire), Elizabeth II and other regal historical figures informed the mood board. Blazers were decked out with decorative tulle. Dresses featured wide skirts, beautifully embellished with floral motifs, which seemed to announce your entrance before you were fully through the door. A ticklish surprise, though: feathers poking from the hems of jeans.

A few quick hours later, Alexandra Palace in north London hosted Simone Rocha​’s autumn offering. Inside a dimly lit Victorian theatre, Paloma Elsesser wore a padded, yet-to-be-announced Simone Rocha x adidas bomber jacket with a sequin skirt and short-heeled mules. On the other side of the room, Alexa Chung wore a lightweight version, with the famous three stripes splashed across the front and lace-trim shorts. Simone and sportswear – who’d have thought it? But there’s something about the juxtaposition of a red trackie top under a gossamer lace-up dress that stirs the soul.

In the mix were saccharine frilly shorts and tops with adidas stripes, alongside beautifully sweeping green dresses of varying proportions that swallowed the models’ arms and legs, giving the impression they were gliding down the runway. Hours later, an editor messaged me: ​“When are the Simone Rocha x adidas bombers available? I need the one Paloma wore.” You and me both.

Burberry always goes to town with a swanky venue and staging. Last season, music and Glasto were at the forefront of creative director Daniel Lee’s vision. For AW26 they went to London town, with a set pulsing with big-city energy, centred around a reimagined Tower Bridge.

Weaving through a darkened room dotted with resin puddles (as if there hadn’t been enough rain outside), Industry’s David Jonsson, Myha’la and Marisa Abela caught up on one side of the bridge, while Nia Archives, John Glacier, Tyriq Withers, Lila Moss and Lyas flanked the other.

There was just as much talent in the show itself, in which the ethos was clear: a little bad weather never hurt anyone. And, what’s more, a great outfit is everything in the face of dreary skies.

FKA twigs’ Sticky thumped as Edie Campbell, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Romeo Beckham skirted around the faux puddles in belted coats and fur-trimmed leather outerwear. Leather was integral to the line, with various buttery garments sent down the runway. But trench coats were, naturally, the cornerstone of the show, remixed with ruffles, bouclé, wool and multiple tactile new iterations.

All that talk of partying had us itching for a night out, and the buzzy Burberry afters hit the spot.