Fash­ion East SS20 was the rave we all needed

Robyn Lynch, Saul Nash and Mowalola each brought the party in their own distinct ways.

WHO WAS SHOWING?

Robyn Lynch and Mowalo­la returned as part of the Fash­ion East line up, while new­com­er Saul Nash joined for the first time.

WHAT WERE THE HIGHLIGHTS?

Stand-out moments includ­ed Robyn Lynch’s col­lec­tion end­ing with Sand­storm by Darude, team Mowalo­la proud­ly cheer­ing on their friends walk­ing down the run­way – includ­ing Hélène Selam Kleih and Max Davis, while Adesuwa closed the show, as well as Saul Nash’s army of dancers patient­ly wait­ing in the cen­tre of the run­way for guests to be seat­ed, before explod­ing into elec­tric chore­og­ra­phy, set­ting the mood for what was to come. 

WHAT DID THE INVITE LOOK LIKE?

The invite was sent in phys­i­cal form and fea­tured an image tak­en by Abdourah­man Njie.

TELL US ABOUT SAUL NASH

The Lon­don-born design­er opened the show and his dance back­ground (and BA in Per­for­mance Design) was evi­dent from the begin­ning. His mod­els grouped togeth­er in the mid­dle of the run­way exchang­ing flu­id motions between them as if speak­ing a secret lan­guage per­haps only they knew. 

WHAT ABOUT THE CLOTHES?

Nash’s clothes were vis­i­bly designed for the func­tion­al­i­ty of move­ment while giv­ing the impres­sion of the wear­er being lighter-than-air” as the mod­els took flu­id strides and moved in per­fect har­mo­ny to a pul­sat­ing beat. 

TELL US ABOUT ROBYN LYNCH

Dublin-born, Lon­don-based design­er Robyn Lynch was snapped up by Lulu Kennedy after grad­u­at­ing from the Menswear MA at The Uni­ver­si­ty of West­min­ster in 2018. Her last col­lec­tion paid trib­ute to youth, play­ful­ness and placed sil­hou­ettes at the top of her design agen­da, win­ning her an army of sup­port­ers excit­ed about what the design­er would bring next. 

WHAT ABOUT THE CLOTHES?

Strid­ing to a sound­track of club-ready tracks, this was sexy sports­wear intend­ed to turn heads. Stick­ing to her chro­mat­ic theme which caught atten­tion last sea­son, SS20 was a mix of mint-green, toma­to-red, tof­fee-brown and laven­der velour two-piece ensem­bles. Pay­ing homage to her roots, tra­di­tion­al Irish cable knits fea­tured, while play­ful brief­cas­es with Robyn’ writ­ten across them fea­tured through­out. Socks were pulled high and worn with heavy Dr Martens san­dals, forc­ing the mod­els to take con­fi­dent steps to a thump­ing bassline, while futur­is­tic gog­gle-style sun­glass­es were worn with lens­es match­ing the colour of the garments. 

TELL US ABOUT MOWALOLA

Last sea­son, Mowalola’s col­lec­tion was every bit of sex and seduc­tion as it was bold and brave. This time, the Niger­ian-born, Lon­don-based design­er is in love – it’s less about sex and more about romance done the Mowalo­la way. The morn­ing of the show, Mowalo­la teased us on Insta­gram with a post sim­ply cap­tioned SS 20 COM­ING FOR BLOOD’ Tonight at 7pm’ – and it tru­ly was a bloody affair…

WHAT ABOUT THE CLOTHES?

Screams could be heard over the sound­track of heavy met­al (FYI, did you know the design­er plays the drums?) and club mix­es while the mod­els stared straight ahead – if looks could kill’ has nev­er been so appro­pri­ate. Hav­ing fall­en in love, Mowalola’s SS20 col­lec­tion har­nessed roller­coast­er emo­tions and high­ly-charged sex­u­al feel­ings. But, after all, this is Mowalo­la – and her idea of love won’t be pret­ty flo­rals and dain­ty pas­tels any­time soon, will it? Instead, there were lime-green cowhide, cow­boy belts with the Vir­gin Mary arched on one and BIG FAT BAS­TARD’ on anoth­er, white Scar­face-style suits splat­tered with blood, and high-neck evening dress­es. Chris­t­ian Louboutin sup­plied the footwear again – think knee-high hot pink boots worn with sculp­tur­al cutout dress­es – an homage to Lil Kim and Mary J. Blige. 

AND THE BEAUTY?

With Daniel Sall­strom cre­at­ing the beau­ty looks, it was old-school hor­ror with red con­tact lens­es, hands dipped in fake blood and intense red eye­shad­ow smeared to the brow­bone which com­plet­ed the gore-fest of Mowalola’s inter­pre­ta­tion of being in love. Heavy black liplin­er was accom­pa­nied with bright red lip­stick, rem­i­nis­cent of the trashy Y2k ref­er­ences the design­er start­ed off with; Mar­i­lyn Man­son, Car­men Elec­tra, Den­nis Rod­man. As for the hair, Vir­ginie Pin­to Mor­eira sculpt­ed hair to smear across the face, while sharp red bobs and punk fringes made an appear­ance, too. 

WHAT DID IT SOUND LIKE?

The col­lec­tion revolved around a sound­track by Joey LaBei­ja, who mixed screams and pant­i­ng with a deep bassline and heavy met­al, remixed into Blu Cantrell and Sean Paul’s Breathe, Gimme Some More by Bus­ta Rhymes, before end­ing with Crys­tal Cas­tles’ Crime­wave.

Lis­ten to the show’s sound­track below.

Listen now: Mix by Joey LaBeija

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