The best shows at Paris Fashion Week

What?

The brand celebrated its 10^th anniversary with a sprawling, grown-up affair – still anarchic, of course, but with an injection of everyday garments for the woman who loves to make a scene outside the club.

Where?

Inside a run-down, multi-storey building with plain decor, which felt all the more powerful as a backdrop for the disruptive Vaquera universe.

What was the collection like?

Not many indie New York brands can say they’ve made it to 10 years in the biz, even when they stage a regular, highly anticipated show every Paris Fashion Week. For Bryn Taubensee and Patric DiCaprio, the duo behind Vaquera, this isn’t only testament to their hard work and understanding of their customer, but also a sign of good business acumen and their ability to shift with an ever-evolving industry.

It might have been hosted inside a derelict space in Paris’s 15^th arrondissement, but the show still had a distinct NYC allure. For starters, two of the models were designer DJ Chappel and creative director Ryan Cardoso, the minds behind Dauan Jacari, the brand that’s fashioning the spiral skirts currently dominating New York, and counts Chloë Sevigny and Charli xcx as fans.

The collection was rife with bulbous, head-turning skirts and ogle-worthy T‑shirts boasting cone bras, some in lace, others layered over shirts. Subversive elements still held the designs hostage, but the designers reconfigured ready-to-wear pieces to focus on American sportswear: emblem-ridden cycling vests and gloves were decorated with the word ​“Beauty”. There were trucker caps that said ​“VAQ”, oversized T‑shirts and striped shirts layered underneath ruffled negligees, while cropped bomber jackets and denim capris complimented one another. A homage to Hermès came towards the end of the show, with its signature scarf print emblazoned across voluminous dresses and a bonnet.

Were there any firsts?

Yes! The show marked Bryn and Patric’s first foray into footwear, with the inclusion of heels that replicated cowboy boots via kitten heel pumps and knee-high boots.

A collaboration with Onitsuka Tiger also popped up, featuring a Mexico 66 trainer with ​“Love” and ​“Rage” written on the tongue. Wrap-around and oversized square sunglasses further amplified the slick red gloss on each model’s lips. And, finally, a debut jewellery line of charms were intertwined with a rose. Phwoar.

How are the pair celebrating the big 10?

“We’re moving to Paris next year!” the pair told us minutes after the show ended.

What?

The young designer and Riccardo Tisci protégé’s Paris debut.

Where?

Inside the sizable Espace Niemeyer, named after the renowned Brazilian architect.

Explain the collection…

Luis, who has dressed Beyoncé, Cardi B and Rosalía, announced his SS24 ​“La Ruta” collection in LA back in October.

Club-rat-meets-genderless-muse encapsulated the show’s vibe. In Luis’ futuristic, mind-bending world, latex meshes with spikes and horns on spandex. The monochrome ready-to-wear line featured boleros with cone detailing paired with suit trousers and a teasing lace thong. Speaking of lace, the material was a large part of the collection, woven into gleaming biker gloves, used for stockings that were coupled with super-short shorts and draped over a model who served as the Luis de Javier bride.

The silhouettes were largely derived from the designer’s affinity for 1940s Balenciaga, and so there was a covert leaning towards haute couture finishes. Exaggerated shoulders on blazers featured silver embellishments, while a stunningly draped dress incorporated tubular detailing that twisted around the arm. British model Georgia Palmer closed the show sans eyebrows, wearing a full white get-up, which revealed a stomach that had been disfigured with small horns – much like the ones featured in Luis’ SS24 show.

What was the glam like?

The goal, according to the team, was to create ​“AI-like characters”. This involved thick, blocky black eyeliner and silver jewellery on the nose bridge.