Indieness, n. The quality of being indie. It’s something Hedi Slimane knows more than a little about, having spent the Noughties dressing (and photographing) pretty much every major figure of the British and American rock scene (not to mention the minor ones, too – that was part of the charm).
And you know what? It’s been increasingly threaded through his work in recent months. Pete and Carl, of The Libertines fame, soundtracked the Celine women’s SS23 presentation in Saint-Tropez last month (a collection captioned “Indie Summer”). His still-life images were used as a limited release poster to celebrate the premiere of ’00s music doc Meet Me in the Bathroom the month before. Hell, maybe there’s something in the water.
Either way, that “indieness” reached its apex last night at a White Stripes soundtracked Winter 23 show inside LA’s iconic Wiltern theatre. Featuring Sky Ferreira on the front row, a Strokes live performance at the afterparty, and a DJ set from Alison Mosshart and Jamie Hince of The Kills, this was a world in which jeans were skinny, partings were centred, and sunglasses were only ever worn indoors. A run of hand-embroided, couture evening dresses closed the show. But it was indie that stole it – even finding space for a Libertines-esque Coldstream red jacket. Pete and Carl would be proud.