Gucci brings the house to London’s Tate Modern

Luxury houses have ventured far and wide to show their collections in recent years, from the Great Wall of China to Los Angeles and Mumbai. Gucci, this year, opted for London – and it was a homecoming of sorts. While Italian by name and nature, the house’s founder, Guccio Gucci, was inspired by The Savoy hotel when he once worked there over a century ago, namely by its art deco architecture and the stylish temporary residents that came through the hotel’s revolving doors.

Gucci’s creative director Sabato De Sarno showed his first ever Cruise collection for the house in a more contemporary setting: the Tate Modern. The designer filled the gallery’s mammoth concrete Turbine Hall with fresh flowers, as the balmy, early-summer day turned to dusk. Since taking Gucci’s helm last September, De Sarno has swapped out the theatrics of his predecessor, Alessandro Michele, for a calmer, more distilled approach to everyday dress. There have been slices of sex appeal, though: micro-skirts, open shirts, and sky-high platforms. But this isn’t the erotic siren call of Tom Ford’s ​’90s reign. De Sarno is appealing to a quieter customer: romantic, well-traveled, and deep in thought.

“Fashion design is a means to study, explore, and interpret. After having expressed my ideas of desirability and sensuality, this is another piece of me, more romantic, more contradictory,” De Sarno said. ​“I like taking something that we think we know and breaking away from its rules, taking it as far as it can go, without ever distorting it. Bringing it towards its opposite and finding harmony.”

There was an ease to the collection, too – a scholarly uniform of blazers and baggy denim, shapeless shift dresses, and stress-free two-pieces to throw on in steely grey or neutral mint. Shoes were flat, via Mary Jane ballet pumps, raised loafers, and creepers, and British emblems appeared on various tartans, casual tailoring and plaids. For the evening, there were breezy, wispy tails in sherbert coloured fabrics, falling out of oversized leather bombers, and plenty of technicality in sharp gabardine, wild chamomile floral motifs and 3D embroideries against a backdrop of laser-cut organza.

De Sabato’s first Cruise collection brought together a wealth of characters. And like his house’s founder a century ago, he was invested in the many attitudes found on London’s streets: toughness, fragility, restlessness and an irreverence that young fans will lap up in spades.

Over its four-decade history, Guess has produced some pretty memorable ad campaigns, featuring the likes of Anna Nicole Smith, Paris Hilton, and Drew Barrymore. Now, it’s the turn of Iris Law, who fronts the brand’s inaugural collection for Guess Jeans. Pieces include the new Guess Airwash, using a new and improved method of stone washing (which Guess introduced in 1981) through organic or recycled materials, with modern fits and archival emblems that nod to the brand’s subcultural influences, from the sexy fits of its ​’80s black and white campaigns to the baggy styles of hip-hop artists wearing Guess in the ​’90s.

Pick your Guess fit here

They say opposites attract, and in the case of Dior and Stone Island’s new collaboration, this makes for sweet harmony. While they might be on opposite ends of the spectrum – high fashion on one, cult functionality on the other – the collab makes for a meeting of obsessives, a shared pursuit for perfection and clothes that follow a long-standing legacy. The collection, then, seamlessly blends Kim Jones’ expressive, romantic masculinity, jewels and all, with Carlo Rivetti’s meticulously crafted heritage pieces: double pleat tailoring, cargo shorts, utility vests, pearl embellishments and, the crowning piece, a grainy Nappa leather jacket, inspired by 20^th-century aviators.

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And while we’re on Dior…

Dior’s latest global ambassador, Rosalía, fronts its new campaign for the Lady Dior bag. Its name comes courtesy of Princess Diana, after she wore the style back in 1995. With its design revisited by creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri season after season, the latest Lady comes with studs, a bag charm, and a matt or patent leather finish.

Shop the Lady Dior here

Eytys are known for their monster platforms, a go-to for a generation who like their jeans baggy and references from the ​’90s. But now, the Stockholm brand is shifting to a slimmer silhouette with the release of Eros, a trainer influenced by ​’70s running shoes and lightweight tech. Crafted from thin nylon and suede, the new shoe features a deconstructed runner, supportive midsole, breathable insole, and the brand’s signature spikes. Always look on the light side of life…

Slip into Eros here

Dover Street Market has a series of events kicking off this week, to mark the return of Photo London – the annual photography fair at Somerset House. Taking place in the concept store’s London flagship near Piccadilly Circus, there’ll be special guest collaborations courtesy of Kiko Kostadinov, Our Legacy, designer Paolina Russo, and photographer Aidan Zamiri (who just directed Charli XCX’s video for 360), plus a Martin Parr book signing and the first issue launch of Tokyo-based Cult* magazine.

Check out the exclusive pieces and events here

A.P.C. and JJJJound are back with their second collection, this time seeing the Parisian ready-to-wear brand partner with the Quebec-based minimalists on a capsule collection for the summer holidays. Partly inspired by the naff apparel found in beachside markets, the capsule includes a fictional hotel printed on a slouchy white hoodie, T‑shirt cap and matching tote bag, while the rest of the pieces are a decidedly effortless offering of monochrome ​“total” looks, from short-sleeved shirt to scarf and swim shorts. Life’s a beach – but don’t forget the factor 50.

Stock up on your holiday bits here

Palace has traded four wheels for two in its latest collaboration, this time with the UK’s biggest bike brand, Brompton. And it’s no ordinary bike: somehow, the duo have come up with a genuinely good-looking fold-up, featuring a poppy glow stick yellow and disco silver paint fade, with reflective features and, of course, the ever-present Palace Skateboard branding to really set you apart from the city boys. Alongside the launch is a short film featuring Palace’s pro skater Rory Milanes slipping down a long, winding slide, bike in hand, that leads to paradise. Who knows where you’ll end up?

Ring the bell for your Palace Brompton here!

Aries and Baracuta have collaborated on an exclusive capsule collection, upcycling two of the latter’s archive deadstock pieces, the G9 Harrington jacket, and G12 Mac – both adopted by youth subcultures since the 1950s, where they proved protective in Baracuta’s birthplace, rainy Manchester. In Aries’ hands, the classic pieces have been subverted through detachable carabiners, leather tassels, reworked fabric, and laser-etching all done in the streetwear brand’s factory in Italy.

Get your hands on Aries x Baracuta here

Acne Studios does many things well: capture an irreverent Swedish flair, achingly cool clothes, and killer shows that attract the likes of Rosalía, Kylie Jenner and Amelia Dimoldenberg. But above all, the brand does denim better than anyone else. The latest to show off their new jeans is actress Sasha Calle, who stars in Acne’s campaign showing off a pair of ice-cold pigment prints on stone-bleached denim – the latest treatment to add to the brand’s blue repertoire. Brrr.

Shop Acne Studios’ denim here

It’s been just over a decade since London-based skate brand Yardsale popped up, founded by Dan Kretiem in 2013. Back then, it was a humble brand selling tees and making small waves amongst in-the-know youth subcultures in the capital. A lot has changed since then. Yardsale has amassed a cult fanbase while operating from an office in south London, and they regularly sell out of their wide-legged Phantasy jeans, tribal T‑shirts and well-cut hoodies, and have collaborated with Sergio Tacchini – one of the most prominent outfitters of ​’80s casuals. So, it only felt right to give back, with the Yardsale boys transforming a Barron Soho room with much of their archive and sold-out items at slashed prices. By the time we got there, all that was left with a swinging hanger… Better luck next time, eh?

Missed out on the archive sale? There’s more Yardsale where that came from…

A century-old legacy of all-weather protection meets an expertise in future-facing, high quality footwear via Belstaff and Merrell’s latest link-up, aptly named Belstaff x Merrell 1TRL. For the occasion, two classic Merrell silhouettes have been reimagined, Belstaff style. There’s the suede Ontario Speed featuring FoatEco midsole, which is made from lightweight algae and recycled cork for extra comfort. And there’s the super limited edition Hydro Moc shoe – so special that they only made 24 of ​‘em. Both styles come in mineral green and cloudy grey colours, as inspired by the British countryside; meanwhile, design references include The Castmaster, a classic ​’70s Belstaff fly fishing vest. Who’s ready for the great outdoors, then?

Get your hands on a fresh pair of Belstaff x Merrell 1TRL trainers here.