Martine Rose and Supreme have won AW24
Fashion news of the week: Plus! H&M pushes Brat summer into autumn, adidas and Miaou go footie mad, and Nensi Dojaka and Calvin Klein get their kit off.
Style
Words: Eni Subair
Martine Rose x Supreme has arrived at exactly the right time. Bringing a much-needed jolt of excitement during the fashion month chaos, the collection, which lands this week, is filled with all the disruptive heavy-hitting pieces you’d expect: banging motif hoodies, monogrammed denim, an engraved leather jacket that every hype beast is champing at the bit for, and Desert Treks courtesy of Rose’s ongoing collaboration with Clarks, paving the way for a three-way partnership – a first for Martine.
As a lover of velour tracksuits, it’s deeply pleasing to see Martine and Supreme catering to those of us who intend on spending pretty much all of winter in the most lo-fi outfits. If you’re one of the 10 people who managed to snag something from the drop earlier this week, good for you. For the rest of us who aren’t well-versed in navigating a Supreme drop (rugby-tackling a trucker hat out of an influencer’s clutches isn’t for the weak), you can always head down to Dover Street Market, where you can inspect the collection IRL in celebration of London Fashion Week.
All that glitters is gold in Miaou and adidas’ world
An ode to the Predator boots worn by footie legend Zinedine Zidane in 2006, this Miaou and adidas partnership sees the relaunch of the classic Taekwondo silhouette, resurrected with quilting and its trademark three stripes. You’ll have to enter a draw that ends on 24th September to stand a chance of nabbing a pair and the It-girls are already sharpening their claws. Purrrr.
Oh, and there’s also the SPZL F.C. range – a collection that attempts to “bridge the worlds of adidas Originals and adidas Football” (in other words, a non-club specific drop of footy apparel and footwear). Is this the end of sectarianism in the game? Neutrality never looked so good.
Charli xcx, Arca and Sage Elsesser form H&M’s new dream team
What happens when you get the hottest faces in fashion and music in one room? You end up with a stellar H&M campaign, that’s what. Featuring Charli enveloped in animal print, the hit-maker of the summer is joined by Lila Moss in a crackled gold dress, Arca giving off Matrix vibes and Sage Elsesser looking cool as ever in a plush jacket. Demure autumn? Pfft. The Brat vibes are still immaculate.
Paolina Russo channels Cali cool for SS25
When Paolina Russo unveiled its AW24 collection in January, the atmosphere was electric. The pieces were equal parts functional and innovative, with the crossover corsets, crochet bonnets and kaleidoscopic jeans personal favourites. What’s more, the joy radiating from the duo behind the label, Paolina Russo and Lucile Guilmard, was palpable. Although SS25 was only showcased as a presentation, the messaging is just as striking, inspired by an idyllic year of globe schlepping, LA’s laid-back approach to dressing, and MGMT’s Time To Pretend. Titled “Gap Year”, the line is stocked with illusion knits, tie-dye jeans that ramp up colour to the max, and folkish-inspired corsets for “soft warrior vibes”.
Get your kit off for Nensi Dojaka and Calvin Klein
Nensi Dojaka’s foray into underwear makes sense. The seven-year-old brand is already in the business of making sliced-and-diced pieces that entice and flatter the figure. The natural next step is to take it all off. And if you’re going to make undies for the fashion pack, Calvin Klein is the brand you want to do it with. Details around the collection are hush-hush ahead of the Nensi Dojaka SS25 runway show on 14th September (marking a return to the LFW schedule after two seasons off). For now, enjoy a short teaser of some bra straps and close-ups of a retina, all soundtracked by heavy breathing. It’s enough to get us going.
Stone Island and New Balance revamp the 991 Trainer
While the adage “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” is a good ’un, sometimes a little facelift doesn’t hurt. Such is the case with Stone Island and New Balance’s latest union, which reimagines the 991, a trainer with running at its core. The result? The new and improved “MADE in UK 991v2 Ghost” is a durable sneaker you can pound the pavements with. Get your fix in a range of colours, from a muted nude to a forest green and black.
Lucila Safdie’s SS25 line harks back to girlhood
Marilyn Monroe, Grace Kelly, Jean Harlow: three women that shaped designer Lucila Safdie’s fourth, thought-provoking collection. Feminine silhouettes drive, including miniskirts with lace trimming, plunging necklines, negligees and billowy sleeves.
And finally… Wales Bonner enters the race for the trainer of the season
In between enlisting Solange Knowles for campaigns and fashioning collections that honour Trinidadian artists, trailblazer Wales Bonner has still found the time to conjure up another pair of trainers that have tongues wagging. Designed for both speed and agility, the neon WB Adios Neftenga Shock trainers will make you forget all about your Samba collection.