Move over, Euphoria. There’s a new show that’s having more than a little influence on the fashion and beauty world: the reality TV-worthy life of one Ms Julia Fox. (Get on it, Andy Cohen)
At first, everyone laughed at Julia Fox’s messy black eye-make-up when she debuted the look at Paris Fashion Week in January. Then it started to grow on people, inspiring an Instagram filter and a thousand think pieces. Most recently, The New York Times’ Jessica Testa coined the look as “two charcoal voids”, because what’s chicer than turning your peepers into dark pits of emptiness?
The eye look even spurned copy-cat looks at this season’s almost-wrapped shows. Bella Hadid at Versace’s AW22 maquillage was nothing short of an homage, while Julia Fox actually walked for LaQuan Smith’s AW22 show in her signature smoked out eye. Turns out Josh Safdie and Ye aren’t the only ones looking to Fox as a muse.
If you’re not ready to go full Gotham glam, fear not. The post-Covid mood was full-on expensive glamour (purr) at fashion shows and the makeup followed suit, with strong eye makeup looks on offer for all. Whether you’re heading to the pub, a christening or a rave, there’s a look out there to match your mood.
WHERE: Simone Rocha
IDEAL FOR: Goth girls looking to tackle summer
Simone Rocha pulled no punches with the theatrical eye makeup at her AW22 show, which was hosted in the gothic London venue Inns of Court. The collection was inspired by the Irish legend of the Children of Lir, a story about princes and princesses being transformed into swans by a jealous stepmother, natch. Designed by makeup artist Thomas De Kluyver, the makeup was a modern twist on dark fantasy with large, bulky black and navy gems and pearls decorating eyes that were otherwise almost makeup-free.
WHAT: The Unfinished Beat
WHERE: Conner Ives
IDEAL FOR: Depop drama queens
Ok, so this is like bed hair but for your eyes. Models sauntered down the Connor Ives Catwalk with irreverent undereye powder still baking. Unblended and unapologetic, this one’s for the fashion crew who are happy to make a statement about how little effort (read as: a lot) they’ve put into their look. It’s like you were doing your eye makeup, but then someone DM’d you on Depop asking “where TF” their crochet bag was and you lost track of time. Hey, it happens to the best of us.
INVEST IN: Laura Mercier’s hero setting powder in a shade too light for your complexion.
WHERE: Poster Girl
IDEAL FOR: New Ravers
Isamaya Ffrench decked out this season’s Poster Girl girls with boxy hi-res fluorescent pink eyes. A graphic update on the cat-eye flick, this shocking pink look is not for the faint-hearted. Best worn under dark club lighting and paired with your favourite athleisure.
INVEST IN: This dreamy L’Oréal Paris pink liquid liner, pronto.
WHAT: Cat-eye slick
WHERE: Molly Goddard
IDEAL FOR: The new guard of indie sleazers
For Molly Goddard’s latest collection, she was inspired by Portobello and Camden market in the late-’80s and ’90s. Floral denims, taffeta and heavy knits were paired with spikey top knots and half-arsed eyeliner. A little bit New Romantic, a lot American Apparel, the less-than-perfect cat-eyeliner flick should come with a trigger warning for anyone who lived through Indie Sleaze the first time.
INVEST IN: Surratt’s cult ink cartridge eyeliner.
WHAT: Metallic Magic
IDEAL FOR: Downtown fashion icons
NYC brand Vaquera stormed Paris for the first time this season and brought their brand of subversive, oversized luxe with them. The makeup, painted by Fara Homidi, was a mix of hardcore laquered blackberry lips and swipes of metallic silver across the eyes. To replicate the look, try putting cream eyeshadow on with your thumb and being loose with the application.
INVEST IN: Mac’s famous Paint Pots should do the trick.
WHAT: Y2K vision
WHERE: Supriya Lele
IDEAL FOR: Uptown glamazonians
Remember coloured mascara? Well, she’s back and she’s more wearable than the first time around. Spotted at Supriya Lele’s London show, the makeup (again by Fara Homidi) was an “après ski-inspired bronzed eye, paired with a powder blue bottom lash.” The whole look says fresh from the beach but ready for the town. Sold!
INVEST IN: This cheeky baby blue mascara from MUA Makeup Academy.
WHAT: Fake it ’til you make it
WHERE: Dries Van Noten
IDEAL FOR: Vintage vixens
Hosted in an empty mansion decorated with richly dressed mannequins adorning staircases and drawing rooms, the makeup looks at Dries Van Noten demanded an approach as decadent as the setting. Makeup whizz Lucy Bridge lined the models’ eyes, before applying feathery false lashes on the bottom and top lids. The effect was a modern take on the Twiggy eye: sexy, mad and brilliant.
INVEST IN: Huge lashes, like these Anastasia Beverly Hills So Hollywood False Eyelashes.
WHAT: Pink Eye
IDEAL FOR: Hot Pink Girl Summer Vol. 2
For Pierpaolo Piccioli’s latest Valentino collection, aptly self-coined the Pink PP collection, he turned the world electric pink. To match, makeup legend Pat McGrath drew sculptural, powdery shapes around the model’s eyes in shocking pink. It was no coincidence that Euphoria star Zendaya was sat FROW in, well, pink. It’s only a matter of time before this particular shade is made an official Pantone colour.
INVEST IN: Nars’ Fatale eyeshadow, while we no doubt wait for Valentino’s eponymous beauty brand to release the goods.
WHAT: The Death Stare
IDEAL FOR: Anyone seeking revenge this spring
Versace’s corseted AW22 collection naturally deserves inclusion. The clothes came synched, rubberised, skin-tight and lacquered. And, yes, Julia Fox was sat front row in full latex goodness, her hair wrapped in pleasure tape and eyes hidden behind the veil of crazed black-eye make-up she’s now known for. But Fox’s eye look was perhaps also an ode to the brand’s leading lady, Donatella herself, who’s never seen without her heavily ringed eyes. Either way, we’re sharpening our kohl pencils back up.
INVEST IN: Urban Decay’s trusty black eye pencil.
WHAT: The Blank Stare
IDEAL FOR: Matrix unloaded madames
We’ll be honest: we have no idea what the eye makeup was for this show. Demna’s troops’ faces were mostly concealed by the snow blizzard they had to stomp through in 5‑inch heeled boots – and their giant, bug-eyed sunglasses. But the point we’re making here is that cyber sunnies are back (again), which is ideal for anyone buying into the coder couture Demna’s so fiercely moulded. It’s also a very legitimate excuse for wearing absolutely no make-up whatsoever. Win-win.
INVEST IN: Balenciaga’s butterfly shades. Then sack your now redundant facialist.