Loewe SS22: everybody’s free(eee) to feel good
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Jonathan Anderson goes out clubbing for the Spanish house’s latest menswear collection, with a serious sexual appetite and a mood to move.
If colour therapy defined Loewe’s blocked-out AW21 womenswear collection in March – clothes to get inordinately high on – this season, creative director Jonathan Anderson continues on his path to feel good. For the Spanish house’s SS22 men’s collection, though, Anderson goes all-out escapism: an abstract, effervescent ode to the dancefloor in saturated rave shades and BDSM cuts found in darkened corridors of Berlin’s gay bars.
And it’s a message of hope, one that Anderson takes from the absence of intimacy and human touch over the past year. The designer looked at the work of New York-based artist Florian Kewer, whose paintings capture segments of dancefloor movement through a personal narrative. They’re freeing, vulnerable and chaotic, much like Loewe’s sexual appetite this season.
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Working with Krewer and photographer David Sims, Anderson presented the collection as four posters, as well as two books that came with 300 glow-in-the-dark star stickers and a yellow slap bracelet – for all your dirty deeds. With Sims’s abstract lens, the Loewe man becomes a pin-up. Whether lounging on a sofa, caught twirling mid-motion or catching a reflection in a full-length mirror, the body is revealed in suggestive snippets: cut-outs in a leather parka reveal the knees, slices in a draped, satin dress show off parts of the torso and a sequined animal-print jumpsuit have legs on full display.
There’s a collective feeling of liberation here. After a year of being locked up comes acceptance for an anything-goes mentality, like the heady clubs Anderson is so in tune with this season. But unlike a spontaneous affair, this is deeply considered: wearing these clothes will afford you a passport to ball-out play.
The looks are combined with equally bonkers accessories. Folded boots in hot pink or slime green tied at the ankles like a parcel, padded sliders in Day-Glo yellow and pink, and bumbags – the perfect night-out accompaniment – roll top backpacks for big weekenders and rounded glasses to conceal the wide-eyed sin.
Everybody’s free to feel good.
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