A$AP Rocky, Rick Owens and RiRi all turned out for Moncler Genius

Perhaps the starriest outing this side of October, Moncler’s ​“The City of Genius” extravaganza saw 10 different creatives from across all disciplines turn their hands to a collab with the outerwear powerhouse.

Part of the label’s long-standing Genius project – first conceived in 2018 as an outlet for more directional designs – the event was headlined first and foremost by its guestlist, which name-checked everyone from Naomi Campbell to Rihanna, who, believe it or not, was off-duty, simply showing face to support loverboy Rocky and flex his new designs.

Yep, A$AP Rocky and names including stylist Edward Enninful, Tokyo legends, Hiroshi Fujiwara and Nigo, Rick Owens and more each channelled their vision into a designated microcosm of style, which the event dubbed ​“Neighbourhoods”. For Rocky, this manifested in a debut skiwear offering, complete with plenty of the freewheeling, petrolhead cues he’s peppered into his work over at Puma, too.

As for Rick Owens’ hack, his third outing with the French maison so far, this comprised space-age separates lined with vectors of down fill and hulking sleeping-bag coats – a familiar Rick-ism given the alpine treatment. Did we mention that Jil Sander’s collaboration, masterminded by creative directors Luke and Lucie Meier, was presented in runway format every half an hour from 6pm to 10pm. Hats off to the models.

Hot on the heels of a bridal couture collection and *that* Palace moment, the label made a welcome return to Shanghai Fashion Week for the first time since 2019, taking last spot on the schedule. A best of Westwood (Bestwood?!), creative director Andreas Kronthaler ticked off historied tropes we know and love, deploying the crowned orb across everything from a sheer wrap skirt to a sleeveless work jacket and even a towel, while also dropping nicher nods via La Belle Époque frou and Renaissance prints oldies will remember from the late Dame Viv’s ​’90s corsetry.

Elsewhere, slit-leg dresses – one off the shoulder, another bedraggled in scrimps of cloth – enrobed male models, giving the show a very Kronthaler-esque vibe. Simpler, oversized tailoring arrived with workwear pockets and drawstring suited-sweatpant hybrids, meanwhile double-breasted blazers (some roomy, some cropped) came in tartan, offering the Chinese consumer lightly directional iterations of Westwood classics.

And quite right, too. When a brand is in flux, mourning the loss of its late founder, it’s only natural, if not wise, to lean into what one has done best for decades. This might not have been as radical as say ​“Pirates”, ​“Mini-Crini” or ​“Witches”, but the East Asian market, and the global customer more broadly aren’t expecting that. Not now, anyway. As such, homage and modularity – think ties, homoerotic styling or an argyle twinset – are proof enough that Viv’s legacy is going nowhere soon.

Yes, it’s about that time. On Monday 2^nd December, the BFC’s British Fashion Awards takes over the Royal Albert Hall, garnering press, vox-pops and homegrown celebs galore. But, aside from all the glitz, glam and afterparty antics, the event is also a opportunity for major companies and stakeholders to discover new industry mavericks, who, as history has shown time and time again, almost always go on to be hot shit. Need further proof? How’s Kai-Isaiah Jamal, Jawara Wauchope and Campbell Addy – all former nominees for the ​“New Wave: Creatives” list – for a case study?

This year, that same list comprises 50 different names to watch, all of whom have been given the seal of approval from a jury including Ib Kamara, Tyler Mitchell and Angelica Cheung. Among the 50, we’re particularly enamoured by zippy stylist and fashion director, Kingsley Tao, stylist and consultant Rudy Simba Berry – who styled Kai for last year’s awards – and image-maker Zaineb Abelque, the director behind Kiko Kostadinov women’s SS25 film.

It’s official! Everyone’s favourite uniform fetishist and clubwear aficionado Olly Shinder has just aired a collaboration with military boot brand Magnum. Arriving in a classic, no-nonsense black leather colourway, the iconic, hyper-masc boot is reimagined with pop-front flaps, sharpened at the strap edge for a crocodilian silhouette recalling the triangulated layering Olly uses on his Cordura outers.

Look closely at the designs, and you’ll soon notice that the British designer has spared no expense. With the Michelin rubber soles – ideal for long evenings in the German capital – and padded ankles, the boots look and feel like the real deal, offering function through specialist protective design with a sleek, kinky twist.

Of course, this is Olly’s MO. Now three seasons into his label, the CSM and Fashion East graduate relies on the technical nerdery found only in the fare of contemporary tradesmen and servicemen, adding in sculptural and form-enhancing subtleties that both eroticise and elevate an otherwise coldly practical piece. This new collab, dropping with Dover Street Market, will no doubt be a favourite amongst the fashion and art world cognoscenti of Neukölln and Islington alike. Walk, don’t run.

As if the Oasis reunion tour wasn’t reason enough for blokes and blokettes to lose their mind, along comes Rkid, fronting a new Berghaus campaign in one of his favoured outerwear brands. His coat of choice? Duh! A very bolshy ​“Trango” jacket – one of the original models to be lapped up by Northern style tribes throughout the ​’90s following its conception in 1986.

Granted, like a whole lot of the Britpop uniform, the design wasn’t made with beer-swilling and swaggering bravado in mind, but it just so happened to work. Indeed, we all remember Liam’s trusty red Berghaus Meru jacket that he wore on Oasis’ Euro tour of 1997. Casuals have been fawning over that exact model since. Well, luckily, the Mancunian is back with another Berghaus moment, shot through the boyish lens of Alasdair McLellan.

“My first encounter with Berghaus was through my brother Noel. He purchased a green one in the late 80s and I was always pinching it off him,” says Liam, in a press release. ​“They were all the rage and I couldn’t wait to get my hands on one of my own. I finally did that and I’ve still got it to this day. To be asked to work with them on their comeback means a lot.”

She’s back with another one! South London darling, Grace Wales Bonner, is well into double digits when it comes to her collabs with Adidas Originals, and yet, the hype just isn’t dying. Why? Well, the Wales Bonner label never misses, imbuing otherwise unanimous sneaker and sportswear designs with diasporic finesse, or reigniting forgotten silhouettes. After all, the Samba’s resurgence – so meteoric that even the unspeakably lame former prime minister rocked a pair – is in large part down to Grace. That’s a compliment, by the way.

For AW24, Wales Bonner leans into ​’80s hip-hop cues, taking the Run DMC favourite, an Adidas Superstar, and luxe-ifying it with croc-effect leathers and some crimped-edge tube socks. Elsewhere, the croc texture features on some buttery new Sambas, meanwhile the long forgotten Samba Millenniums are given a metallic mirrored makeover, complete with a blocked-off croc section on the heel. Chic! As for the garms, we’re talking easygoing tracksuits in a signature Bonner palette – dark chocolates, ochre and ivory – plus some snacky knits and outers to boot. Cop the drop at adi​das​.com.

Who do you support? If it’s any of these three cities, you’re in luck. Adidas Spezial has mined the Adidas-laden archives of Aberdeen FC, Leeds United FC and Nottingham Forest FC for a nostalgic re-up of their club insignia. Somewhere between training kits and spectator fare, the athleisure pieces are simple yet effective, comprising cosy flocked tracksuits, cotton sweaters and a fresh set of Lotherton Spezials – an offbeat pair, complete with textured soles and an asymmetric toe overlay.

True to the Spezial line – erected in 2013 by Adidas buff, Gary Aspden – and its USP, this collection offers a tight blend of vintage appeal and contemporary edge, keeping silhouettes neat but a far sight roomier than what the team wear on pitch these days. As ever, you can find this new clobber on adi​das​.com, but be warned, Spezial diehards will already be at the checkout page. Fastest fingers first.

Enlisting Latina photographer Thalía Gochez to shoot its latest AW24 women’s drop, Carhartt WIP took to the streets of Boyle Heights, the original Chicano hub of LA. As the street-savvy sister line to the US workwear OG, Carhartt WIP delivers hot-stuff staples, including baggy carpenter jeans, a duck camo work shirt and quilted skirt, as well as a rugged parka and the classic hunter vest. Shot among traditional local homes, the story sees Thalía’s Mexican and Salvadoran heritage shine through, celebrating the people she knows and cherishes.

“Representation behind the camera is just as important as in front,” says Thalía in a press release. ​“My team, including my primary light technician Ash and assistant Maria, tends to be predominantly women or people of colour, and people who I’ve built deep relationships with for years.” Similarly, the styling, care of Salvadoran creative Genesis Durán, leant into this community-first approach. ​“The looks were an homage to the influential women in my home growing up – with my mom, tía, and primas at the forefront. They are my blueprint,” adds Genesis.

Gorp enthusiasts, rejoice. You and your tape-seamed pals are in for a treat. For their debut crossover, the legendary German sports label and Heliot Emil – the brainchild of Danish sibling duo Julius and Victor Juul – lean into the details, crafting a ninja-slick uniform for the modern urbanite.

The centrepiece, a Sympatex jacket, primed with triple-layer hydroponic membrane and integrated wiring to keep its form, is a must for anyone looking to upgrade their gear, while the contoured T‑shirt and adjustable short – trouser hike pants offer plenty of blink-and-miss-it nuance for you and your Orienteeer Magazine-reading pals to fawn over.

Did we mention the mountain range debossing on the cap and the glove-like fit of those pixel-knit Fast-Trac Nitro 3s? Serious clobber, alert! We’ll see you and your rock-climbing, G‑splitting pals shopping Puma on 26^th October, then.

Life as a Downtown It-girl requires range, and boy, does Chloë Sevigny have it! From roles in Kids, American Psycho, Bones and All to runway cameos for Miu Miu and Mugler, Ms Sevigny has straddled subculture and high culture for decades, so lauded that her infamous loft sale in 2023 had kids queuing and squabbling for hours on end.

But, as if to remind us that she’s still Chloë, muse to Larry Clark, OG Supreme kid and all-round social chameleon, she’s just appeared in the new campaign for graffiti crew-cum-art and clothing outfit, IRAK, splashing the infamous four-letter word all across the Big Apple as part of a rare Converse collab. Toasting an inconspicuous chore coat with IRAK-tiled lining, Chloé rocks the new IRAK One Star Pros, appearing half-disguised as she stalks the streets. One thing is clear: she’s still that girl.

Incoming! The LA-raised, New York-based model, Paloma Elsesser is the face of Moose Knuckles’ new, fashion-forward offering, as designed by stylist extraordinaire, Carlos Nazario, who was appointed as the brand’s artistic director in March 2023.

Leaning into his own memories of New York as a youngster, the Queens native keeps silhouettes loose and bold, serving up oversized faux-furs, double-collared shearlings and long, overcoats in a palette of candy floss, cream and black. The first iteration of a series called ​“Moose Knuckles Lab”, the collection will be succeeded by takeovers from various entities, helping the brand innovate beyond its more function-led credentials. Of course, those very assets come in handy for the likes of New York’s fash-pack, whose winter climes aren’t exactly worlds apart from that of the Canadian tundra that gave way to Moose Knuckles.

Previously, Carlos has worked as a celebrity stylist for the likes of Lizzo, worked on shoots for Vogue and served as i‑D​’s global fashion director, all while keeping his feet in the underground, having come up in the industry with the likes of Hood By Air’s Shayne Oliver. As such, his role at Moose Knuckles, a brand upping its cool, looks promising, bringing a blend of reference points from high and low.

After airing his first campaign at the house in August 2023, enrolling the achingly cool and kooky lensman Johnny Dufort for the imagery, this collection, shot by the more elegant Vito Fernicola, shows Carlos is a man of many talents – something Maison du Moose will be delighted to indulge.

While we’ll refrain from using any hackneyed iteration of *insert*-core here, we will admit that Charlie Constantinou is undoubtedly one of the most igneous gorp geeks out there, pushing the arena well beyond its usual limits. Yep, the svelte, stripped-back aesthetics that once dictated every Walthamstow art director’s wardrobe is nowhere to be seen in Charlie’s garms. Instead, hulking, deep-pocket snowboarder silhouettes hold fort.

And so, for his second collaboration with the almost century-old Icelandic label – founded as an outfitter for winter pursuits – Charlie continues to scale up the shapes, while also leaning into his expertise as a seasoned colourist and fabric development obsessive. His familiar ombré dyeing, for example, appears on a striped set, complete with the usual peaked hood and protective necessities needed for unforgiving conditions.

Elsewhere, he brings his quilted jackets – which literally swell or contract depending on the wearer’s movements, body fluctuations and layering – into the mix. ​“This second season with 66ºNorth feels a very organic step forward,” says the British-Cypriot designer in a press release. ​“By combining ideas from our mainline with the fabrications and finishings of 66ºNorth, we are achieving an even more refined level of adaptability, which functions between both worlds.”

The capsule, which was tease-dropped in Dover Street Market London earlier this month, was styled and shot by Orienteer Mapazine duo, Jack West and Rory Griffin, and airs via 66ºNorth this week.

Arguably one of the most in demand models right now – alongside runway bestie Alex Consani – Colin Jones has strut her stuff everywhere from Ludovic de Saint Sernin to Maison Margiela. But it’s not just the runway megawatts she’s keen to align her name with. No! This season, SRVC (pronounced ​“service”) enlisted Colin to put the whole SS25 collection to work.

The garms, envisioned by Tottenham-born creative director Ricky Wesley Harriott, combine raw, London sensibility – stylised with big hoops and a butter blonde centre-parting – and the New York Fashion Week sass we expect from Col the Doll. Here, an oatmeal tracksuit top-and-skirt set comes with ruched forearms and midriff, while a splay-front bodycon with fringed, shrouding sleeves is double-seamed in copper-tone thread, gesturing to denim, one of the label’s throughlines.

Elsewhere, an eyelet-lined panel dress dangles across the front in two diverging rolls of fabric. Above the hips, the design is cut to reveal a peek of lower back, and higher up, a gash of décolletage. Together, the collection offers an easy but directional air. Each piece arrives with a quirk – a cutout sleeve adornment on the bikini, say, or denim ribbons to fasten a zip-through skirt – yet remains subdued in palette and silhouette. We’re fans.

Look, Loewe always delivers when it comes to creative, borderline genius marketing. We’ve had Daniel Craig, face scrunched like a petulant teen, shot by David Sims for AW24, the late Dame Maggie Smith – enough said – for pre-SS24 by Juergen Teller, plus plenty of other bizarro zeitgeist meets high fashion moments.

For SS25, J‑Dubs really upped the ante, calling on the likes of yet another Queer superstar, Drew Starkey, Baby Reindeer​’s Richard Gadd, and legendary Kentish painter, Rose Wylie, to pose for Juergen in seasonal oddities, bucket bags, plunging cable-knits and delicious buttery leathers.

As ever, Jonathan showcased his underground nous, too, casting the House of Beauty and Culture’s Dave Baby, a group of leather daddies and, as if to tick every niche, a scuba diver, some bodybuilders, a man holding a giant marrow, and a jockey. Weird, but it works.